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Professional Ratings: 94 Wine Spectator, 94 The Wine Advocate, 93 International Wine Cellar, 91 Wine & Spirits
Region: Champagne, France
Varietal: Vintage Sparkling Wine
Other Info: Collectible Wines, Great Wine Gift
Alcohol By Volume: 12.5%
Item no. 114639
The bouquet spirals through a light-filled, floral softness to the gritty minerality that epitomises Dom Perignon, evocative of candied fruit, plant life and exquisite camphor leaf freshness, and finally plunges into darkness, spices and licorice root. On the palate, the wine still has a physical presence. It is striking and demading, tactile and vibrant rather than aromatic. It is built on rhythm and rupture more than harmony. After an initial cloud of stofness, we hit a mineralised verticality that gradually opens out to suggest a bitter, iodised and saline nobility.
The Moet & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvee Dom Perignon 2003, which will be released early next year, displayed rich aromas of honey, brioche and hints of vanilla. Though round and sumptuous, there was bright citrus, peach and a focus on the finish that retained elegance, freshness, finesse and complexity (94 points, non-blind). With air, it became more textural, with a ginger note and a distinctive mineral streak.
Unfortunately there is only one new release from Dom Perignon this year. The 2003 is one of the most unusual Dom Perignons I have ever tasted, going back to 1952. Readers will remember that 2003 was a torrid vintage across northern Europe, especially during the critical month of August, when temperatures remained very hot for well over a month. The harvest was the earliest on record, until 2011, that is. I suppose its not that surprising Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy chose to make a 2003 Dom Perignon, given his penchant for risk-taking, an approach that has yielded so many memorable wines that stretch the perception of what big brand Champagne is and can be. The 2003 Dom Perignon is a big, broad shouldered wine. It does not have the seductiveness of the 2000, nor the power of the 2002. It is instead very much its own wine. In 2003 Geoffroy elected to use more Pinot Noir than is typically the case, and that comes through in the wine's breath and volume. The 2003 is a big, powerful Champagne that will require quite a bit of time to shed some of its baby fat. The trademark textural finesse is there, though. I expect the 2003 to be a highly divisive Champagne because of its extreme personality, but then again, many of the world's legendary wines were made from vintages considered freakish at the time. The 2003 is an atypically, rich, powerful, vinous Dom Perignon loaded with fruit, structure and personality. It is not for the timid, but rather it is a wine for those who can be patient. No one has a crystal ball, but personally I will not be surprised if in 20 years' time the 2003 is considered an iconic Champagne. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038.
Pale yellow-gold. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes lemon pith, pear, iodine and chalky minerals. Ripe and densely packed but lively, offering candied citrus fruit flavors and deeper notes of anise and fig. Becomes spicier and stonier with air, finishing with strong punch and lingering smokiness and minerality. More open-knit and overtly ripe that most of the 2002 version, with plenty of depth and the richness and weight that distinguish this hot vintage.
An impressive take on the 2003 vintage, this layers broad, rich and toasty flavors into a powerful wine. It's full-bodied, almost meaty in its satisfying depth. Match its warmth to ris de veau.