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Professional Ratings: 94 International Wine Cellar, 93 The Wine Advocate, 91 Connoisseurs' Guide
Region: Russian River, California
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Other Info: Collectible Wines
Item no. 119345
Unsurprisingly this is DuMOL's wine of the vintage and one of the finest two or three wines they've ever bottled (the winemaker, Andy Smith, suspects the finest, but it's a bit early for such pronouncements). There is a level of complexity, integration and effortless harmony present that is often declared but rarely truly found. It's undeniably a powerful mouthful of Russian River Pinot Noir but it never strays to the overdone or awkward, remaining subtle, elegant and restrained at all times. There's a good deal of concentration and volume to the wine and the mid palate really expands and flows but there's always acidity and tannin present to rein it in and provide clarity and authority of flavor. It's the level of aromatic complexity that really drives the wine, providing its thrust and persistence, so that you always feel there's more coming - another level of complexity and volume. And it's the combination of these multiple non-fruit aromatic nuances – game, leather, lavender, nutmeg, juniper, pepper, menthol, dried herb – that add all the detail and extra dimension.
It's most similar to the 2002 Finn bottling which has become majestic in its maturity and one would anticipate this bottling to age gracefully for at least a decade. As with all great wines, there's a naturally limited supply, so carefully select the occasion to open this treasure.
Bright purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes candied dark berries, incense and fresh flowers, with vanilla and star anise accents building with air. Stains the palate with sweet black raspberry and floral pastille flavors. This gained weight and power with air, blending richness and vivacity smoothly. Finishes with outstanding clarity, energy and floral persistence.
The 2009 Pinot Noir Finn wraps around the palate with waves of dark red fruit. This is another plush, deep wine endowed with tremendous depth and sheer textural richness. Dark black cherries, flowers, spices and mint are layered in this effortless, totally gracious Pinot. The dark, sensual style is very inviting. The Finn is made from the best block in the Estate vineyard and another plot in Occidental Road. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021.
It is easy to make the case that this one is the ripest and most full-bodied of the DuMOL lot, but, once again, the wine is not near to being over-the-top or outsized, and its ripeness never pushes fruit from center stage. Supple and fleshy with a feel of substance and very rich in sweet oak, it is the kind of Pinot that wants drinking with savory, slowly braised dishes such as Boeuf Bourguignon, and, of the bunch, it is the one we would chose to drink first.