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Professional Ratings: 93 The Wine Advocate, 93 International Wine Cellar, 91 Wine Spectator
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Style: Earthy & Spicy
Item no. 120614
An incredibly youthful wine packed with promise. When first poured, this deep ruby and magenta wine is both enticingly sweet and savory, with aromas of black raspberry, cassis, star anise, cinnamon, sweet basil and black olive bursting from the glass. Such a rich garrigue-laden aromatic profile makes me think this wine could have hypothetically been grown on the steep Northern Rhone hillsides of Cornas.
In the mouth, it is savory and richly textured with great elegance and balance. Upon opening the bottle, the predominant flavors are red pie cherries and red currant with savory spices, but as the wine opens up with air, the aromas and flavors morph into darker fruit flavors, sandalwood, Asian spices, incense and dark chocolate while remaining poised and elegant with a succulent acidic frame. This could be even greater than the 2008 wine from this vineyard and will no doubt age and continue to develop gracefully for the next 12-15 years.
From a site practically adjacent to the Bergstrom winery – and about which, including its Bergstrom connections, you can read in my separate coverage in this report of the eponymous estate – the Bergstroms' 2010 Pinot Noir de Lancellotti Vineyard displays ripe, juicy blackberry mingled with resin, cinnamon, dark chocolate, vanilla, and clove, and underlain by beet root and a subtly present sense of forest floor. A vivid, tart berry edge and salted meat suggestions serve for invigoration and saliva inducement in a long finish. The alliance of sweet richness with levity and bright ping of acidity reflects the unusual proclivity of this site, where Bergstrom says "you can let the fruit hang as long as you want, and still come up with Burgundian pH numbers." The flip side of that, he notes, is that the tannins can be aggressive if vines and young wine are not carefully monitored under that aspect; but in the present instance I find them fine-grained and well-integrated. Incidentally, apropos the youthfulness of so many of the vines in this site (roughly half were planted only in 2006), Bergstrom maintains that quality doesn’t have to suffer in the vine's "adolescence" if the crop is managed tightly, and I suppose this wine makes that point pretty decisively!
Vivid ruby. Intensely perfumed nose offers black raspberry, cherry compote and candied licorice. Vanilla and cola nuances add an exotic quality to sappy red and dark berry flavors, with tangy acidity providing lift. Closes on a bright, spicy note, with lingering sweetness and excellent tenacity.
Fresh, open-textured and vibrant, with guava and raspberry flavors, nicely shaded by hints of mint and mushroom, the finish lingering delicately. Has complexity and refinement.