Bodegas Ponce Clos Lojen Bobal 2019
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Robert
Parker
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Somm Note
Winemaker Notes
Aromas of juicy blackberry and boysenberries. A smooth, medium bodied red with a hints of spice, mineral and earthy notes. It has a nice minerally acid that holds this well-structured wine together. Complete with a clean and fresh finis
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The entry-level Bobal 2019 Clos Lojen mixes grapes from two villages, Villanueva de la Jara and Iniesta. The grapes fermented with full clusters in 4,500-liter oak vats and matured in 10,000- and 15,000-liter oak vats for six months. It started with a strong nose reminiscent of carbonic maceration, but it soon turned into more licorice and serious aromas. This comes from a zone that ripens early, so the grapes were picked before the rain. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, and it's very tasty with moderate alcohol and good freshness, making it very versatile with food. It feels like a very complete vintage for this super affordable bottling, in line with the 2017; it has depth and is more serious than what the price might suggest. Great value! This is the first certified-organic vintage of this wine.
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Manchuela, a lesser-known Spanish wine region that is inland from Valencia, is where the Bobal varietal thrives, Known for its thick skins and rusticity, controlling the Bobal’s vigor is what makes for a well-balanced and interesting wine. While there are very few defenders of this region and even fewer winemakers that are dedicated to this varietal, Juan Antonio Ponce stands proud as a master and interpreter of the Bobal grape.
Juan Antonio Ponce began his winery in 2005, at the age of 23. He works biodynamically in the vineyard, and in the winery he takes a natural approach, using low levels of sulfur dioxide. His philosophy is to make natural wines with wild yeast fermentation, to respect the local varietal Bobal and to express its terroir.
Juan Antonio Ponce worked as the right-hand man to Telmo Rodriguez at Cia de Vinos Telmo Rodrigues for 5 years. During this time he was in charge of winemaking, vineyard management, etc. His father, who owned some land in Manchuela, decided to start this project with him.
Bobal is enjoying a mini renaissance in Spain today as high-elevation vineyards in its homeland of Utiel-Requena produce dense and velvety wines dominated by dark berry and cocoa characteristics. However, its function as Spain’s second most planted red grape variety was once only for bulk wine and concentrate. Since it is drought-resistant, it does well grown as unirrigated bush vines and acts as a fine voice of terroir. Somm Secret—Bobal also shows great potential for rosé and sparkling wines because of its high levels of acidity and anthocyanins.
The Moors gave it the name, ‘Manxa,’ which fittingly means ‘parched earth.’ La Mancha, the largest Spanish wine producing region in all of Spain, is one of its hottest and driest. Sturdy and drought-resistant white varieietes like Airen, Viura and Verdejo thrive in this environment.