Kir-Yianni Diaporos 2017
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Robert
Parker
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Blend: 87% Xinomavro, 13% Syrah
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Diaporos (the labels of late just say "single vineyard" and have dropped the "Block 5") is all Xinomavro but for 13% Syrah. It was aged for 16 months in 50% new French oak and comes in at 14.3% alcohol. Though the "Block 5" is not on the label any more, this is still sourced from "the heart of Block 5" of Kir-Yianni's vineyard, says the winery. There are some rustic Xinomavros in this report, but this adds a lot more flesh and more ripeness to balance the tannins. The tannins, by the way, are still powerful; this is no easy wine. It will need some air or some cellaring to show its best, even if the concentrated mid-palate better soaks up some of the power. The Syrah may be a small minority of the blend, but it does color this and express itself, adding some important nuance. This is very young, very unevolved and very much likely to improve in the cellar, but right now it looks like a great Diaporos. I personally wouldn't want to touch it for another five years, and that might not be enough. That's not to say it is completely unapproachable even now, but it will surely show better, as well as more harmoniously, with development.
Native to Greece, Xinomavro is widely regarded the finest red wine of the country. Its name literally means “acid black”, and attains fullest potential in the country’s northwest region of Naoussa. These single varietal bottlings of Xinomavro (blending is not allowed here) are often compared to the fine Barolos of Italy for their structure, finesse and age-worthiness. While its vines are fickle and blue-black grapes grow in tight clusters, similar to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro actually appears unrelated. Somm Secret—The use of French oak can help tame Xinomavro but too much can overwhelm it. Some eschew oak entirely during winemaking; other producers use locally-grown walnut.
Naoussa is home to one of Greece’s most age-worthy reds: Xinomavro. Flourishing on the sun-exposed, southeastern-facing slopes of Mount Vermio between 700 to 1,700 feet in elevation, some say Xinomavro is Greece's red counterpart to its famous white, Assyrtiko. Others liken it to Italy's well-respected, highly perfumed and powerful, Nebbiolo.