Alois Lageder Krafuss Pinot Nero 2018
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Parker
Robert - Vinous
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The Krafuss residence, which has survived largely unchanged since the Renaissance, is owned by Roland Riz, Alois Lageder's father-in-law. Surrounded by vineyards and orchards, the historical building reflects the economic significance that the vineyards in the area above San Michele Appiano enjoyed as early as the Middle Ages. In 1991, the vineyards atop a gentle hill were rehabilitated and planted with Pinot Noir. The combination here of elevation, exposure, soil, microclimate, and good ventilation create a mix that is ideal for Pinot Noir, which is a traditional variety in the area. In 2013, Lageder made the transition to biodynamic working, and now there are again sheep grazing on the edge of the village of Appiano.
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Delicate and fine, the Alois Lageder 2018 Pinot Noir Krafuss (now a Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT wine) is redolent of wild berry, blue flower, crushed stone and orange peel. This wine embraces the subtle side of the grape and produces a lasting sense of balance and freshness. The aromatic intensity of this vintage is perhaps a little undertone and thin compared to recent past vintages (like the excellent 2016 edition that comes to mind); however, the wine has all its elements meticulously in place.
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Vinous
It’s hard to pull away from the 2018 Pinot Noir Krafuss, as a deep and vivid blend of cherry pits, mint, pine shavings, chalk dust and smoke swirl up from the glass. Just as its bouquet would suggest, this is pure, energetic and wholly satisfying on the palate, with a sweet and sour mix of wild berries giving way to inner violet and lavender tones, while coming across as both creamy but also ethereal. A bit more depth might take the 2018 to the next level, but that’s just splitting hairs. It finishes lightly-structured and refined with nuances of tangerine and pomegranates that linger on and on. This is some stunning juice.
Other Vintages
2020-
Parker
Robert - Vinous
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Suckling
James
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Parker
Robert
The Alois Lageder winery was established in 1823 and today it is managed by the family’s fifth and sixth generation. The winery is located in Magrè, in the southern part of the Alto Adige region. With a holistic approach, creativity and an experimental spirit Alois Lageder produces wines that reflect the diversity of Alto Adige. We are committed to biodynamic wine production and continually expand our knowledge in this area. In addition to the family owned vineyards (135 acres / 55 hectares) the winery collaborates with around 80 grape growers (247 acres / 100 hectares).
Alois Lageder believes that organic and biodynamic cultivation greatly enriches the landscape. One of the goals of biodynamics is to build a closed farm organism and to increase diversity and fertility. The winery collaborates with mountain farmers who bring their cows and sheep in the winery’s vineyards during the autumn and winter months, following the old tradition of transhumance. This helps to increase the vitality of the grapes and the biodiversity.
A few years ago, Alois Lageder started to cooperate with some local winegrowers from the wider Dolomiti area, which is why Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco have the Dolomiti appellation. Today, this collaboration and organic farming are met with enormous interest allowing us to expand this project giving the wines their own name: Terra Alpina. The Terra Alpina wines are characterized by a unique interplay of harsh Alpine and sunny Mediterranean influences.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
A mountainous northern Italian region heavily influenced by German culture, Trentino-Alto Adige is actually made up of two separate but similar regions: Alto Adige and Trentino.
Trentino, the southern half, is primarily Italian-speaking and largely responsible for the production of non-native, international grapes. There is a significant quantity of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Merlot produced. But Trentino's native and most unique red variety, Teroldego, while still rare, is gaining popularity. It produces a deeply colored red wine rich in wild blackberry, herb, coffee and cocoa.
The rugged terrain of German-speaking Alto Adige (also referred to as Südtirol) focuses on small-scale viticulture, with great value placed on local varieties—though international varieties have been widely planted since the 1800s. Sheltered by the Alps from harsh northerly winds, many of the best vineyards are at extreme altitude but on steep slopes to increase sunlight exposure.
Dominant red varieties include the bold, herbaceous Lagrein and delicate, strawberry-kissed, Schiava, in addition to some Pinot Nero.
The primary white grapes are Pinot grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot blanc, as well as smaller plantings of Sauvignon blanc, Müller Thurgau. These tend to be bright and refreshing with crisp acidity and just the right amount of texture. Some of the highest quality Pinot grigio in Italy is made here.