Bodegas Avancia Old Vines Godello 2015
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Godello (Green Label) is aged ten months sur lie in French demi-muids and puncheons, seeing no stainless steel. The wine is a completely different style, as the vines for this cuvée are dry-farmed Godello bush vines planted 1904-1910. This is the equivalent of a Premier Cru, possibly a Grand Cru Chablis, with terrific stony minerality (notions of wet pebbles) as well as a touch of tangerine oil, orange blossom and apple skin. Crisp, medium-bodied, beautifully textured and long, this is a stunner and worth the full retail price of $25.00. Drink it over the next several years.
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Wine Spectator
Juicy flavors of pineapple and persimmon mingle with savory notes of ginger and fennel in this rich white. Features a broad texture, showing enough acidity to stay focused. Drink now through 2020.
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James Suckling
Rich, complex barrel-influenced style with honey and peach fruits leading to a palate that has plenty of depth and sweet, ripe peach fruit flavor. This wine just holds the balance.
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Bodegas Avancia lies snuggled in the slate dominant mountainsides of Valdeorras, high above the Sil River. Named for the extensive gold mining that the Romans conducted in this area, (Val-de-Oras roughly translates to Valley-of-Gold in Latin) Valdeorras is home to the finest terroir for growing two of Spain’s most important indigenous grapes – Godello and Mencía.
Jorge was the first broker to introduce Godello into the United States, and for many years, was the only merchant offering a wine made from this unique grape. Jorge always dreamed of having his own Godello project, and Bodegas Avancia is the result of this dream. Bodegas Avancia produces the finest Godello wines in all of Spain.
In 2016, Robert Parker, Jr. stated “One of my favorite wineries in Spain is Bodegas Avancia. This is a small estate of roughly 23 acres, dry farmed (a characteristic of all of the selections of Jorge Ordóñez), with organic viticulture. Their specialty is working with the Godello grape, which may well be Spain’s finest indigenous white grape. It has the texture of a Chardonnay, but with crisp, mineral and floral notes in its aromatics. Avancia is certainly the top producer of this intriguing and delicious dry white.” Jorge also selected D.O. Valdeorras due to its unique conditions for growing Mencía, Galicia’s most important red grape. The combination of slate soils, high altitudes, old vines, and warmer climate compared to the rest of Galicia provide Valdeorras with the best terroir for growing Mencía.
Godello is native to northwest Spain and has experienced a major revival in the last 20 years. Godello wines are typically sleek and lightly creamy in texture. Barrel fermentation and lees stirring are typical in Valdeorras, Spain where the grape comes from. These winemaking techniques make the most of Godello's inherent structure and help bring out its lovely floral character. Somm Secret—DNA profiling says that Spain’s Godello is actually identical to the Portugese grape variety Gouveio, which grows throughout the Douro and Dão (where it used to mistakenly be called Verdelho).
Just to the south of Bierzo, the steeply terraced Valdeorras Spanish wine region is a respected source of both red and white wines. Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) and Mencía are the principal red varieties while Godello and Palomino compose the majority of this region's whites.