Benanti Rovittello Etna Rosso 2005
Grown on 80-year-old vines in Castiglione, on the north side of Etna at 2,460 feet, this wine is remarkably fresh for a 2005, its fruit still blue in tone, its tannins intensely volcanic. The acidity creates a structure in the wine that is tart and angular, allowing space between the flavors that reveals their subtlety. The finish is cool and sappy, ready to last in parallel with the flavors of veal and eggplant involtini.
The 2005 Etna Rosso Rovittello is Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio that spends a year in French oak barrels. The Rovittello is made in a forward style that emphasizes fruit and a soft-textured, juicy personality. The winemaking approach yielded a generous, fruity wine but one that lacks the aromatic definition that defines this great, indigenous grape. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.