In the mouth, it is savory and richly textured with great... View More
Vivid ruby. Intensely perfumed nose offers black raspberry, cherry compote and candied licorice. Vanilla and cola nuances add an exotic quality to sappy red and dark berry flavors, with tangy acidity providing lift. Closes on a bright, spicy note, with lingering sweetness and excellent tenacity.
From a site practically adjacent to the Bergstrom winery – and about which, including its Bergstrom connections, you can read in my separate coverage in this report of the eponymous estate – the Bergstroms' 2010 Pinot Noir de Lancellotti Vineyard displays ripe, juicy blackberry mingled with resin, cinnamon, dark chocolate, vanilla, and clove, and underlain by beet root and a subtly present sense of forest floor. A vivid, tart berry edge and salted meat suggestions serve for invigoration and saliva inducement in a long finish. The alliance of sweet richness with levity and bright ping of acidity reflects the unusual proclivity of this site, where Bergstrom says "you can let the fruit hang as long as you want, and still come up with Burgundian pH numbers." The flip side of that, he notes, is that the tannins can be aggressive if vines and young wine are not carefully monitored under that aspect; but in the present instance I find them fine-grained and well-integrated. Incidentally, apropos the youthfulness of so many of the vines in this site (roughly half were planted only in 2006), Bergstrom maintains that quality doesn’t have to suffer in the vine's "adolescence" if the crop is managed tightly, and I suppose this wine makes that point pretty decisively!
Fresh, open-textured and vibrant, with guava and raspberry flavors, nicely shaded by hints of mint and mushroom, the finish lingering delicately. Has complexity and refinement.