Bodega Colome Altura Maxima Malbec 2012
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
There is a new wine at Colomé, sourced from their Altura Maxima estate in Payogasta, some 90 kilometres away form Colomé and planted at 2,800 to 3,100 meters altitude, the highest commercial vineyard in the world. The name Altura Maxima means, of course, maximum altitude. The first commercial release is this 2012 Altura Maxima Malbec which has a heady, very ripe and showy nose that is extremely powerful, open and intense with aromas reminiscent of violets, peach, gunpowder and something like malt whisky (earthy, organic, with notes of peat?). The nose is complex and changes by the minute, developing nuances of honey and pollen, more flowers, malt and peat. There are also spices, nutmeg, wild herbs and more and more flowers with time in the glass. The wine was matured in well-seasoned French oak barrels for 24 months, but the newest barrel was four years old, and there is no influence in terms of aromas, the intention was only to mature and slowly oxygenate the wine in the barriques. I also tasted the 2013 in barrel, which will be bottled in one month time, but will be kept in bottle for one more year before it's released. It was subtler, a little austere and somehow closed, though showed a different personality. It is one I look forward to tasting next year. This 2012 is extremely impressive and truly unique. Bravo! It will be released in early 2016. Only 2,000 of this hedonistic elixir exist.
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Celebrated for its bold flavors and supple texture, Malbec has enjoyed runaway success in Argentina since the late 20th century. The grape originated in Bordeaux, France, where it historically contributed color and tannin to blends. A French agronomist, who saw great potential for the variety in Mendoza’s hot, high-altitude landscape, brought Malbec to Argentina in 1868. Somm Secret—If you’re trying to please a crowd, Malbec is generally a safe bet with its combination of dense fruit and soft tannins.
The Salta region in northern Argentina is home to world’s highest vineyards. Near the town of Payogasta, the Colomé Altura Máxima vineyard is planted at 10,206 feet in elevation.
Salta is part of the Calchaquí Valley, which benefits from more than 300 days of sun per year, subjecting its vines to considerable ultraviolet radiation. The valley experiences strong high altitude winds, even in the “lower” vineyards, which are planted at 5,413 feet. Because of these elevations and resulting extreme conditions, vines produce lower yields and thicker-skinned grapes, resulting in concentrated, aromatic and well-structured wines.
In a truly unique region, the highly aromatic variety, Torrontes, thrives; intense sun exposure allows full ripening, while cooling winds maintain the grapes’ acidity levels and phenolic balance.
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda, Syrah, and, particularly, Tannat have the most potential among reds.
Upscale hotels, beautiful colonial architecture, a majestic Andean backdrop and impressive food and wine make the area attractive among tourists as well.
Salta is the fourth most important Argentine wine-producing region after Mendoza, San Juan, and La Rioja. Its oldest vineyards were planted in 1862.