Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga Botani Old Vines Moscatel 2011

Muscat from Spain
  • 91 Robert
    Parker
2.8 Good (6)
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Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga Botani Old Vines Moscatel 2011 Front Bottle Shot
Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga Botani Old Vines Moscatel 2011 Front Bottle Shot Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga Botani Old Vines Moscatel 2011 Front Label Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga Botani Old Vines Moscatel 2011 Back Bottle Shot

Product Details


Varietal

Region

Producer

Vintage
2011

Size
750ML

ABV
13.6%

Your Rating

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Somm Note

Winemaker Notes

Pale straw color. Fresh, fragrant and mature, brimming with the aroma of Muscat grape, apple, mandarin orange and a pinch of wilted flowers. On the palate it is fruity and dry, with notes of citrus and a gentle finish.

Professional Ratings

  • 91
    This is probably the only totally dry 100% Muscat de Alexandria made in Malaga, where this grape is used for sweet wine production. To give you an idea how much I love this wine, for the wedding of my goddaughter, held near Pittsburgh last summer, I purchased five cases of the 2010 for her reception. Moreover, I bought an additional three cases of the newly released 2011 (reviewed here) for consumption in my home over the summer and early fall. This is a wine made by the family bodega of Jorge and his sister Victoria Ordonez. Producing 5,000 cases from the decomposed slate and quartz soils of Malaga, their harvest remarkably begins in July to capture the fresh, incredibly perfumed fruit of this varietal. It is then fermented totally in stainless steel, making it one of the most perfumed, naked expressions of dry white wine in the world. This is a killer example that people just love. Let me see if I can properly describe it. The exotic aromatics could fill a small room, with notes of flowers, honeyed white citrus, melons and hints of more exotic tropical fruit such as mango and tangerine. Jorge Ordonez and his sister Victoria, as well as their consulting winemaker, Gerhart Kracher (son of the late, great Alois Kracher) are trying to bring back the reputation of Malaga with wines such as this. The history of the wines of Malaga can be traced to 600 B.C. and the Greek era, and more recently, this area’s wines were celebrated by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand in the 1500s, but then they largely fell out of favor until a number of innovative producers such as the Ordonez family, in alliance with the Krachers of Austria, began to resurrect the sweet wines as well as this incredibly perfumed, dry white, the only one to exist from this region.

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Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga

Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga

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Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga, Spain
Bodegas Jorge Ordonez Malaga Winery Video

Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez Málaga, located in Ordóñez’s hometown, was founded in 2004. A partnership between Ordóñez and the Kracher family of Austria, the winery was founded with the goal of resuscitating the centuries long tradition of winemaking in Málaga, which was destroyed by the phylloxera plague in the 19th century. It was Jorge’s dream to champion his home region and restore it to its former glory.

The winery has more than accomplished its goal by producing Spain’s first and best dry Moscatel de Alejandría, Botani, and by reviving the tradition of unfortified sweet wine making in Málaga. Their series of sweet wines, N°s 1 through 4, are amongst the finest in the world, and are produced in the style of the unfortified sweet wines of Málaga that were internationally renowned in the 17th through 19th centuries. In 2012, N°2 Victoria became the first Spanish wine ever served at a Nobel Prize dinner.

Jorge Ordóñez Málaga produces its dry and sweet wines from Muscat of Alexandria, the oldest clone worldwide of the Muscat varietal. This is the original Muscat, which was originally cultivated extensively around Alexandria, Egypt, and planted in Málaga by Phoenician traders 3,000 years ago. Muscat of Alexandria is one of the world’s only remaining ancient (genetically uncrossed) grape varieties and the most important for commercial wine production. The Muscat of Alexandria vineyards used by Jorge Ordóñez Málaga were planted between 1902 and 1974 on un-terraced mountainside vineyards. The vineyards of Málaga are perhaps the most extreme and dangerous in Europe, due to the decomposed slate soils, and inclines of up to 70°. The vineyards in Málaga have remained untouched. All pruning and harvesting is done by hand, and mules carry six 15kg boxes up the slopes at a time. A heroic form of viticulture.

In order to work with grapes that have high acidity, Jorge Ordóñez Málaga exclusively works with mountainside vineyards that are oriented away from the Mediterranean. In such a warm, dry climate, most grapes would completely lack balancing acidity. Furthermore, most of the winery’s vineyards are located at above 700m above sea level. Jorge Ordóñez Málaga is also the headquarters for all of Grupo Jorge Ordóñez.

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White grapes are used in two famous types of Spanish wine, Sherry and Cava, but we will limit this discussion to still whites. Let’s begin with perhaps the best known and most highly regarded internationally, Albariño . Produced in the region of Rías Baixas, just above Portugal in northwestern Spain, Albariño typically sees no or little oak and is medium to medium-plus in body. Aroma and flavor notes often include citrus and peach, often with subtle floral notes and a suggestion of sea spray, giving the wine a zesty feel. Often bottled as a single varietal, Albariño is sometimes blended with other indigenous grapes like Loureira and Treixadura. Try one of these Spanish whites from Forjas del Salnes.

Let’s look at a few other Spanish white wines. Godello also hails from northwestern Spain and presents a profile of grapefruit, minerality and a slight smoky quality. Enjoy a bottle from Bodegas Avancia. The region of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, is home to Verdejo , which makes refreshing, un-oaked white wines whose herbal vibrancy recalls Sauvignon Blanc . Protos makes a tasty version. Up north in the Basque region, we find the wine called Txakoli (sometimes called Txakolina). Pronounced “sha-ko-LEE,” it’s made from a local grape called Hondurrabi Zuri and is light, fresh, citrusy, dry … and with razor sharp acidity that makes it a fantastic partner with local seafood and tapas. Ameztoi Gertariako is a good Spanish white wine producer to check out.

The Penedѐs region, best known for the oceans of delicious Cava it sends to the world, also produces still Spanish whites, sometimes from international varieties like Chardonnay , and often from the same grapes used for Cava. These include Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. Avaline produces a fine example of Penedes white. Finally, we visit the Rioja region. While it is historically and internationally famous for its reds, Rioja also produces fine Spanish white wines. These are usually based on Viura (the local name for Macabeo) and make good everyday sippers, although some aged versions can be stunningly complex. A good place to start is the white Rioja from Bodegas Muga.

As you can see, Spanish white wines offer a vast opportunity for exploration!

HNYJOZBOI11C_2011 Item# 120174

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