Bodegas Ponce Reto Albilla 2017
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Parker
Robert -
Suckling
James
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
This white is produced with the Albilla grape, a unique variety found almost exclusively in the village of Villamalea, and the 2017 Reto comes from seven different plots fermented separately with indigenous yeasts in 600-liter oak barrels and 1,500-liter oak foudres, where the wine matured with the lees for seven months. 2017 was a very early harvest, and the wine has a cool-climate, austere personality, based on stony minerality and acidity. This was picked the 5th of August, extremely early and with 13% alcohol. This is a mineral white in the style of a Bairrada from Quinta das Bagéiras, a Sancerre from Vatan or Agua de Roca from Matías Michelini. Liquid rocks! This has to be the finest vintage of this incredible white. It's vibrant and has the coolness and strict texture of the granite soils.
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James Suckling
Pared-back bruised apple, lemon and straw aromas with a gently spicy edge, too. The palate has a very impressive array of light honey, nougat and white almond. Bright, sweet and spicy finish.
Other Vintages
2021-
Parker
Robert
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Parker
Robert
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Suckling
James
Manchuela, a lesser-known Spanish wine region that is inland from Valencia, is where the Bobal varietal thrives, Known for its thick skins and rusticity, controlling the Bobal’s vigor is what makes for a well-balanced and interesting wine. While there are very few defenders of this region and even fewer winemakers that are dedicated to this varietal, Juan Antonio Ponce stands proud as a master and interpreter of the Bobal grape.
Juan Antonio Ponce began his winery in 2005, at the age of 23. He works biodynamically in the vineyard, and in the winery he takes a natural approach, using low levels of sulfur dioxide. His philosophy is to make natural wines with wild yeast fermentation, to respect the local varietal Bobal and to express its terroir.
Juan Antonio Ponce worked as the right-hand man to Telmo Rodriguez at Cia de Vinos Telmo Rodrigues for 5 years. During this time he was in charge of winemaking, vineyard management, etc. His father, who owned some land in Manchuela, decided to start this project with him.
There are hundreds of white grape varieties grown throughout the world. Some are indigenous specialties capable of producing excellent single varietal wines. Each has its own distinct viticultural characteristics, as well as aroma and flavor profiles.
The Moors gave it the name, ‘Manxa,’ which fittingly means ‘parched earth.’ La Mancha, the largest Spanish wine producing region in all of Spain, is one of its hottest and driest. Sturdy and drought-resistant white varieietes like Airen, Viura and Verdejo thrive in this environment.