Bodegas San Huberto La Rioja Bonarda 2014
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Bonarda is a name given to a handful of distinct grape varieties, mainly growing in Italy and in Argentina. In Lombardy’s Oltrepò Pavese and Emilia Romagna’s Colli Piacentini zones, the grape called Bonarda is actually Croatina. In Novara, Bonarda Novarese, often blended with Spanna (Nebbiolo), is actually Uva Rara. DNA profiling shows that most of the Bonarda in Argentina is actually identical to California’s Charbono—and Charbono is actually the Douce Noire grape from Savoie. Somm Secret—Bonarda Piemontese, an aromatic variety, is the only true Bonarda. Before phylloxera, it covered 30% of Piedmontese vineyard acreage.
As Argentina’s oldest wine-producing province, La Rioja’s focus is on the white variety, Torrontés Riojano. Here the large cooperative, La Riojana, makes several styles: an aromatic dry one, a late harvest, and a sparkling version.