Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2009
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Suckling
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Robert
Product Details
Your Rating
Somm Note
Winemaker Notes
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
A rich, ripe wine for the vintage with pretty fruit and floral character. Full body, chewy tannins and a fresh finish. Needs a year or two to soften.
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Wine Enthusiast
Classically crafted, it opens with a fruit-driven fragrance of bright red berries accented with whiffs of cooking spices and balsamic herbs. The juicy palate delivers fleshy black cherry, black raspberry, black pepper and exotic spices alongside big, velvety tannins. Soft and delicious, this is already accessible so enjoy over the next few years.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Patrizio Cencioni's 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a robust but slightly timid wine at the onset that needs a few more years of bottle aging to flesh out further. The fundamentals are all there: It offers a thick load of dark fruit followed by nuanced touches of leather, licorice and cooling cherry cola. There's a touch of menthol brightness as well that adds a sense of lift and vibrancy.
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The Capanna farm, owned by the Cencioni family since 1957, is located north of Montalcino in the area of Montosoli. The vineyards of Montosoli are considered some of the best crus of Brunello. Capanna is a micro-estate dedicated to farming and vinifying the classic Sangiovese Grosso grape variety in a modern style. Capanna sits above the slope on the north facing portion of the old volcano that is topped by the citadel of Montalcino. The north facing slope consists of complex volcanic soil and subsoil which provide less extreme heat and cooler soils that allow the grapes to slowly mature. The highly permeable volcanic soils yield juicier, thinner-skinned grapes. No chemical fertilizers or herbicides are used, and every effort is made to maintain natural biodiversity in the vineyard. Winemaking emphasizes seamless forward fruit, substantial depth of color, flavor, balance, and elegance. The winemaking at Capanna reinforces and elaborates the advantages of its vineyards to produce wines which are rich, complex, generous and smooth.
Among Italy's elite red grape varieties, Sangiovese has the perfect intersection of bright red fruit and savory earthiness and is responsible for the best red wines of Tuscany. While it is best known as the chief component of Chianti, it is also the main grape in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and reaches the height of its power and intensity in the complex, long-lived Brunello di Montalcino. Somm Secret—Sangiovese doubles under the alias, Nielluccio, on the French island of Corsica where it produces distinctly floral and refreshing reds and rosés.
Famous for its bold, layered and long-lived red, Brunello di Montalcino, the town of Montalcino is about 70 miles south of Florence, and has a warmer and drier climate than that of its neighbor, Chianti. The Sangiovese grape is king here, as it is in Chianti, but Montalcino has its own clone called Brunello.
The Brunello vineyards of Montalcino blanket the rolling hills surrounding the village and fan out at various elevations, creating the potential for Brunello wines expressing different styles. From the valleys, where deeper deposits of clay are found, come wines typically bolder, more concentrated and rich in opulent black fruit. The hillside vineyards produce wines more concentrated in red fruits and floral aromas; these sites reach up to over 1,600 feet and have shallow soils of rocks and shale.
Brunello di Montalcino by law must be aged a minimum of four years, including two years in barrel before realease and once released, typically needs more time in bottle for its drinking potential to be fully reached. The good news is that Montalcino makes a “baby brother” version. The wines called Rosso di Montalcino are often made from younger vines, aged for about a year before release, offer extraordinary values and are ready to drink young.