Marc Hebrart Blanc de Blancs
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Robert
Parker -
Wine
Spectator -
Jeb
Dunnuck -
Wine &
Spirits
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Disgorged in May 2020, the new release of Hébrart's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, linden and brioche. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and enveloping, it's bright and precise, with racy acids, a pinpoint mousse and a long, chalky finish. It's a touch drier than previous renditions (which were typically dosed as brut), and that really foregrounds the pristine quality of the fruit.
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Wine Spectator
A creamy, harmonious version, with a lovely skein of fragrant spice unwinding through flavors of apple, chopped hazelnut and poached peach. Hints of honey and lemon curd linger on the rich, mouthwatering finish. Disgorged October 2014. Drink through 2020. 60 cases imported.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Coming from three vintages, with 65% from 2018, 25% from 2016, and the remainder from the 2017 vintage, the NV Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut offers a nice range of depth, with a hint of spiciness in its notes of fresh ginger, green apple, and saline. There is a balanced dosage that rounds out through the mid-palate, with an undercurrent of lime and more green apple skin. Pleasant and snappy, it feels like it can go a little longer than the Reserve. Best after 2023.
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Wine & Spirits
Mostly from the grands crus of Oiry and Chouilly in the Côte des Blancs, this is a bright chardonnay, simple and precise. While there’s some creaminess from malolactic fermentation, this is fresh and brisk. A great way to greet friends.
Jean-Paul Hébrart took over the operations of Marc Hébrart Champagne in the Vallée de la Marne from his father Marc in 1997. This estate is not exactly new: Jean-Paul’s father has been producing champagne under the Marc Hébrart name since 1964 and has been a member of the Special Club since 1985. Hébrart farms 14 hectares of vines on 65 different sites in 6 villages: the 1er cru vineyards of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay, Val d’Or and Bisseuil and the grand crus villages of Aÿ as well as Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Each parcel is always vinified separately in glass lined stainless steel and ceramic tanks. He is slowly phasing out the ceramic as it is more difficult to control the temperature. Hébrart is also experimenting barrel fermentation and indigenous yeast fermentation for some of his older vine parcels.
Using these new techniques Jean-Paul has made an alternative Téte de Cuvee (2004 vintage dated) called Rive Gauche-Rive Droite, named for the sites on both sides of the Marne that comprise of the blend. These old vine parcels are fermented and aged in 205 liter four year old barrique (without battonage) before being bottled sur latté. Jean-Paul hand selects grapes, uses a Bucher press, and is experimenting with fermentation in petite cuvee. Hébrart doesn’t block malolactic fermentation and does all remuage by hand.
A term typically reserved for Champagne and Sparkling Wines, non-vintage or simply “NV” on a label indicates a blend of finished wines from different vintages (years of harvest). To make non-vintage Champagne, typically the current year’s harvest (in other words, the current vintage) forms the base of the blend. Finished wines from previous years, called “vins de reserve” are blended in at approximately 10-50% of the total volume in order to achieve the flavor, complexity, body and acidity for the desired house style. A tiny proportion of Champagnes are made from a single vintage.
There are also some very large production still wines that may not claim one particular vintage. This would be at the discretion of the winemaker’s goals for character of the final wine.
Associated with luxury, celebration, and romance, the region, Champagne, is home to the world’s most prized sparkling wine. In order to bear the label, ‘Champagne’, a sparkling wine must originate from this northeastern region of France—called Champagne—and adhere to strict quality standards. Made up of the three towns Reims, Épernay, and Aÿ, it was here that the traditional method of sparkling wine production was both invented and perfected, birthing a winemaking technique as well as a flavor profile that is now emulated worldwide.
Well-drained, limestone and chalky soil defines much of the region, which lend a mineral component to its wines. Champagne’s cold, continental climate promotes ample acidity in its grapes but weather differences from year to year can create significant variation between vintages. While vintage Champagnes are produced in exceptional years, non-vintage cuvées are produced annually from a blend of several years in order to produce Champagnes that maintain a consistent house style.
With nearly negligible exceptions, . These can be blended together or bottled as individual varietal Champagnes, depending on the final style of wine desired. Chardonnay, the only white variety, contributes freshness, elegance, lively acidity and notes of citrus, orchard fruit and white flowers. Pinot Noir and its relative Pinot Meunier, provide the backbone to many blends, adding structure, body and supple red fruit flavors. Wines with a large proportion of Pinot Meunier will be ready to drink earlier, while Pinot Noir contributes to longevity. Whether it is white or rosé, most Champagne is made from a blend of red and white grapes—and uniquely, rosé is often produce by blending together red and white wine. A Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay will be labeled as ‘blanc de blancs,’ while ones comprised of only red grapes are called ‘blanc de noirs.’