Chateau Pavie 2004
A conspicuously modern wine, Pavie with its hyper-ripe fruit and substantial new oak treatment stands out as an offense to some, a glorious pleasure to others. In the case of the 2004, it carries the oak beautifully, untamed by it. The wine is wild, in fact, and quite hard to resist. The cool complexity of the tannins grows out of three terroirs: the limestone plateau, a sector of gravel and limestone and a third sector of clay. The fruit opens with thick-skinned black plum power, reverberating with feral scents and violets. Staunch and formidable, the wine is packed with life.
A real sleeper effort from the Perse family, the 2004 Pavie has a dense, bluish purple color and a wonderful, sweet kiss of blackberry, licorice, spice box and roasted herbs. The wine is rich, deep, full-bodied and absolutely remarkable for the vintage. This is certainly a candidate for one of the wines of the year and seems still relatively youthful and promising. Drink it over the next 20 years.
Black in color, inky, with treacle tart, tar and intense berry on the nose. Full-bodied, with chewy yet caressing tannins and lots of ripe, almost raisiny fruit character. Mouthpuckering. Needs time. Best after 2016.
Deep red. Refined aromas of ripe red cherry and strawberry jam complicated by notes of rosemary, marjoram and cocoa. Suave, rich and dense, with savory red cherry, licorice and herb flavors showing lovely balance and surprising flesh for the vintage. Finishes long and rich, with mouthcoating, polished tannins. A major success in 2004; perhaps just a touch lean at the back. The estate opted for full maturity of the grapes and risked picking in between the fall rains. For example, the cabernets were picked extremely late, between October 18 and 28. Very well done.
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