Clos Mogador Priorat 2008
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Robert -
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Spirits
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Three recent vintages bought us up to date. The 2008 Clos Mogador has a very fine bouquet of blackberry, blueberry and violet with great delineation and poise. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy, coarse tannins that neatly juxtapose the core of sweet dark fruit. With impressive tension and poise, this is an excellent Priorat for long-term aging. Drink 2014-2022+.
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Wine Spectator
Firm and fresh, this focused red delivers ripe, pure cherry and red plum fruit framed by tobacco, mineral and espresso notes. This has a silky texture and is accessible, yet shows good density and structure.
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Wine & Spirits
With the fruit purity and strength of fine Priorat, this blend of garnacha, cariñena, syrah and cabernet feels clean and honest. Its black fruit and exotic spice flavors are accompanied by lively acidity and tension that lasts through the finish, leaving a fresh memory, slightly floral.
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Robert Parker once said of Clos Mogador that the wines are "stunning examples of what Spain can produce but so rarely does". This is more true now than ever, because compared with the large numbers of ambitious "alto espreccion" Spanish wines that have come on stream these last few years, Mogador has not just concentration and complexity, but also energy, vitality and a genuine soul.
Beyond the usual suspects, there are hundreds of red grape varieties grown throughout the world. Some are indigenous specialties capable of producing excellent single varietal wines, while others are better suited for use as blending grapes. Each has its own distinct viticultural characteristics, as well as aroma and flavor profiles, offering much to be discovered by the curious wine lover. In particular, Portugal and Italy are known for having a multitude of unique varieties but they can really be found in any region.
Tiny and entirely composed of craggy, jagged and deeply terraced vineyards, Priorat is a Catalan wine-producing region that was virtually abandoned until the early 1990s. This Spanish wine's renaissance came with the arrival of one man, René Barbier, who recognized the region’s forgotten potential. He banded with five friends to create five “Clos” in the village of Gratallops. Their aim was to revive some of Priorat’s ancient Carignan vines, as well as plant new—mainly French—varieties. These winemakers were technically skilled, well-trained and locally inspired; not surprisingly their results were a far cry from the few rustic and overly fermented wines already produced.
This movement escalated Priorat’s popularity for a few reasons. Its new wines were modern and made with well-recognized varieties, namely old Carignan and Grenache blended with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. When the demand arrived, scarcity commanded higher prices and as the region discovered its new acclaim, investors came running from near and far. Within ten years, the area under vine practically doubled.
Priorat’s steep slopes of licorella (brown and black slate) and quartzite soils, protection from the cold winds of the Siera de Monstant and a lack of water, leading to incredibly low vine yields, all work together to make the region’s wines unique. While similar blends could and are produced elsewhere, the mineral essence and unprecedented concentration of a Priorat wine is unmistakable.