Corliss Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
I was sorely disappointed in the 2011 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and what I thought would be one of the top wines of the vintage from barrel last year now shows a heavy handed, chunky oak profile, with overt wood, scorched earth, licorice and smoked black fruits on the nose. Medium to full-bodied, it still has good mid-palate concentration, as well as good purity to its fruit, but it’s currently overwhelmed by new oak, and I’m not convinced the fruit will win this battle. I’m hoping I caught these 2011s on an off day (nevertheless, I still rated them all outstanding, just a fair click below their barrel scores), but give them a year or two in the cellar, at which point it will be much more obvious if they’re integrating the oak and will improve, or if they’ll need consumed sooner rather than later.
Rating: 91+
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At Corliss, they exercise the discipline to make the highest quality decisions at each stage of winemaking, from vine to bottle. From sustainable, meticulous viticulture in their Estate Vineyards, to individual berry sorting at harvest, to slow native yeast fermentation in micro-scale custom oak and concrete fermenters. They follow this with extended elevage in barrel, rigorous selection of the best lots for blending, and over two years of additional aging in bottle before the wines are finally labeled and available for your enjoyment.
Their winemaking is the result of teamwork and patience. Michael and Lauri Corliss have, from the beginning, been at the center. They are engrossed in every detail and have guided their winemaking philosophy. They are the barometer of consistency for developing the Corliss style. Surrounding Michael and Lauri is a talented staff of winemaking professionals who collectively work together to create the consistently beautiful vintages of Corliss. Their team is joined by Atelier Melka, which is one of the world’s most highly regarded winemaking consultant teams. Working together, they dedicate their best efforts with every vine, every grape and every bottle.
Washington produces so many exciting wines, and that definitely includes Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. With over 10,000 acres under vine, Cabernet Sauvignon is now the most widely-grown varietal in the state. Terrific examples hail from sub-appellations like Red Mountain, Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley. One of the fascinations of these Columbia Valley Cabs is that they so often seem to have one foot in the New World and one in the Old. Representing the former are characteristics like the ripe, forward fruit that results from long sunny days during the growing season (up to two hours longer than in much of California). Old World similarities include an undeniable brightness from acidity, as well as notes of herbs, graphite and a dusty, sometimes gravelly minerality.
Whether you’re looking for a budget bottle for everyday enjoyment, or a stellar, world-class wine with tremendous aging potential, Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines can deliver the goods! Among the many fine options are bottles from Columbia Crest, Chateau Ste. Michelle, L’ecole #41, Quilceda Creek and Leonetti.