Dom Perignon 2004
On the palate, the wine instantly traces an astoundingly fine line between density and weightlessness. Its precision is extreme, tactile, dark and chiselled. The full taste lingers with the utmost elegance on a sappy, spicy note.
Little has changed since last year, except I have tasted – indeed drunk – it several times, and enjoyed its message more and more. It still sends shivers up my spine, shimmering in its purity and intensity, lemon citrus the first and last flavours, with nectarine, pear and spice on the mid-palate. For the record, it is 52% pinot noir and 48% chardonnay, and if properly cellared, has a 20-year life ahead. There will be late-disgorged releases over that period at far higher prices.
Yet another masterpiece created by Richard Geoffroy. Unmistakable Dom Perignon style with unparalleled silkiness throughout the palate. The mousse is worthy of its own chapter and the elegance is striking. Nice minerality and floral notes with citrus overtones. Slightly short now, but time will fill in the small gaps in the beginning of life. This time it tasted intensely toasty and fairly close to the 1983 when I tasted the vintage for the first time at the same age as the 2004 is now.
With all the lush plenitude of the 2004 vintage, this wine's explosive flavors give it a bold, broad, layered impression on the palate. But the tight structure and edgy tension of the acidity reins it in, capturing the wine's aromatic power and extending it into graceful length. This is a precise and sophisticated Champagne suited to the cellar.
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