Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles 2009
Bright violet. Sexy, expansive aromas of black raspberry and cherry preserves, with floral and spicecake nuances and slow-mounting minerality. Energetic, mineral-driven red and dark berry flavors show alluring sweetness and a suave floral overtone. This seamless, pure Beaujolais finishes with excellent clarity and lingering floral and red berry notes. As delicious as it is right now, I'll bet that it will be even better in a few years and will hold for a good while after that. Cheysson's wine is raised in cement and stainless steel tanks and never sees wood.
After being delighted to discover Jean Pierre Large’s wines with his 2006 (reviewed in issue 178) I somehow, reprehensibly, missed out on tasting either of the two subsequent vintages, but the Domaine Cheysson 2009 Chiroubles confirms the existence of major talent, not to mention the presumption of excellent terroir. Red raspberry and red currant mingle with black tea and peony in the nose, then combine vividly – right down to the tart, invigoratingly bitter crunch of their seeds – on the palate, with smoky, saline, and alkaline accents. There is a saline, exuberantly tart berry-brightness to the finish that positively exhilarates. The 2006 was still lovely 12 months ago, and I would expect this exceptional value 2009 to be worth following for 5-6 years.