Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis Clos de Mosny 2020
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The rich and concentrated but still youthful 2020 Clos de Mosny has complex aromas of butter, honey and vanilla and is richly textured with a seamless balance. It has the potential to age for at least two decades. More than 30 years after starting from modest means, Jacky and Joëlle Blot have established the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups in Moutlouis as one of the great Loire domaines. Their son Jean-Philippe is now increasingly taking over the running of the domaine. Jacky’s passion is dry white Chenin vinified in barriques, with no residual sugar and no malolactic fermentation. Increasingly the accent is on single vineyard wines with their own character – wines of great purity that age brilliantly. Starting in the late 1980s with 7ha, the domaine now has more than 60ha mainly in Montlouis but with two parcels in Vouvray. The latest substantial acquisition was the Clos de Mosny, a 12ha, walled, south-facing vineyard in the southern part of the appellation, in autumn 2010.
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Unquestionably one of the most diverse grape varieties, Chenin Blanc can do it all. It shines in every style from bone dry to unctuously sweet, oaked or unoaked, still or sparkling and even as the base for fortified wines and spirits. Perhaps Chenin Blanc’s greatest asset is its ever-present acidity, maintained even under warm growing conditions. Somm Secret—Landing in South Africa in the mid 1800s, today the country has double the acreage of Chenin Blanc planted compared to France. There is also a new wave of dedicated producers committed to restoring old Chenin vines.
On the south bank of the Loire River, below Vouvray, Montlouis produces all styles of Chenin blanc from bone dry, off-dry, sweet, oak aged and even the sparkling Montlouis Mousseux and Montlouis Pétillant Naturel. Soils here are lighter and sandier compared to Vouvray.