Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sevre et Maine Granite 2020
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Robert
Parker
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Somm Note
Winemaker Notes
It is the color of white gold. An elegant nose with pronounced notes of mineral, flint, silex, and notes of citrus fruits and oyster shells. The attack is sharp and straight, the mouth crystalline imparting a great purity, fresh with the ambiance of the sea; mouth slim, fleshy and complex, very salty notes and notes of chalk and citrus fruits. A wine equipped with a long life with a persistent ambiance of the sea.
Pair with tartare of langoustines, zest of lime and mandarin or raw fish, Sushi and sashimi of white fish, sea bass and shellfish, refined oysters, crayfish and more.
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Aged on the big lees in concrete cisterns until March this year, the 2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite offers ripe and aromatic fruit with beautifully fine and refreshing granite notes. Round and intense on the palate, this is a mouth-filling, refined and elegant, singular salty and grippy Muscat with delicate bitters on the yeasty finish. This is an excellent Muscat. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork.
Other Vintages
2018-
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1) Early adoption of organic viticulture in the Loire, well before it was fashionable to do so. The vineyards of Domaine de l'Ecu have been certified Organic for over 40 years and certified Biodynamic for over 20 years.
2) Strong belief in the unique terroirs of Muscadet that inspired vinification and bottling based on soil type, as opposed to appellation blends. Thus was born the famed terroir wines from the subsoils of Gneiss, Orthogneiss and Granite.
3) Unlike most regular Muscadet, the wines are aged sur-lie for 15-18 months, resulting in a texture and layered complexity that have come to define the unique style of Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadets and set them apart from other wines in the appellation. In fact, some Loire cogni scenti have argued that Domaine de l'Ecu should be its own appellation - like Chateau Grillet, for example - due to the singularity of the wines.
Besides these factors, there are a series of non-negotiable "house rules" that apply to all the wines at Domaine de L'Ecu: working the soils, harvesting by hand, fermenting with indigenous yeast, avoiding pumping or racking of the must (only gravity), and minimal use of sulfur. All in all, it is a philosophy of "no make-up"; just true wines without adulteration or artifice.
In recent years, the domaine has seen a change of hands since celebrated owner and natural viticulturist Guy Bossard had no heirs interested in taking over the property. The estate is now run by a passionate, wine-loving gentleman named Frederik (Fred) Niger. Fred is a very “hands-on” owner and is dedicated to maintaining the greatness of the estate. To that end, he has retained Bossard as an ongoing consultant to ensure a smooth transition.
Like Bossard, Fred is a fanatic in the vineyards, crops extremely low, and makes Muscadets that have remarkable depth, precision and ageability. His passion and connection to the natural world guide his every move in the vineyard and cellar. He is present, observant and mindful, always with the goal of working in tandem with the forces of nature and never against them. In recent years, Fred has embarked on a compelling endeavor to craft a collection of Vin De France varietal wines fermented and aged in a combination of amphora and barrel, and sometimes amphora alone. He is particularly interested in the energy exchange between vessel and wine, and ultimately in how this energy is transmitted to those of us who have the pleasure of experiencing these vibrant, lively, pure expressions of soil and grape.
Made famous in Muscadet, a gently rolling, Atlantic-dominated countryside on the eastern edge of the Loire, Melon de Bourgogne is actually the most planted grape variety in the Loire Valley. But the best comes from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, a subzone of Pays Nantais. Somm Secret—The wine called Muscadet may sound suggestive of “muscat,” but Melon de Bourgogne is not related. Its name also suggests origins in Burgundy, which it has, but was continuously outlawed there, like Gamay, during the 16th and 17th centuries.
The Pays Nantais, Loire’s only region abutting the Atlantic coast, is solely focused on the Melon de Bourgogne grape in its handful of subzones: Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine, Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire and Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu. Muscadet wines are dry, crisp, seaside whites made from Melon de Bourgogne and are ideal for the local seafood-focused cuisine. (They are not related to Muscat.) There is a new shift in the region to make these wines with extended lees contact, creating fleshy and more aromatic versions.