Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2006
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Lafon 2006 Meursault Clos de la Barre offers another example of very clear, bright fruit; a polished, satiny texture yet with underlying firmness and palpable mineral density; nut oil richness; and a long, expressive finish featuring luscious lime, grapefruit, and pineapple. Along with narcissus and citrus, there are hints of coconut, vanilla, and lanolin on the nose, although only 3-4 of the 50-some barrels were new. Some of the exotic character on exhibit here can be chalked up to “late” harvest, so quickly were the grapes evolving in the four prior days of picking. I suspect this will be best enjoyed over the next 4-6 years. The more mineral – iodine, salt, chalk – inflected 2005 is formidably dense and sappy.
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One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Known to offer a magical balance of smoothness and freshness, Meursault's quality is hard to rival. The village lies in the middle of Côte de Beaune, just south of Volnay. Meursault is said to mean “mouse’s jump” because in the past the plots producing Pinot Noir and those producing Chardonnay were no more than a mouse’s jump from one another. Today the village is almost exclusively Chardonnay. A tiny bit of Pinot Noir is produced here with the best coming from Les Santenots on its northern side near Volnay.
While there are no Grands Crus, Meursault’s numerous acclaimed Premiers Crus can compete with any other top-notch white Burgundy. Some to know are Les Perrières, Les Genevrières, Les Charmes, Le Poruzot, Les Bouchères and Les Gouttes d’Or.
Meursault produces outstanding village level wines as well. In general great Premiers Crus and even village level Meursault (Chardonnay) have enticing aromas of lime peel, tropical fruit, crushed rocks, spice and hazelnut. On the palate there is a wonderful balance of brightness and a seductive length with flavors of white peach, pineapple and citrus.