Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu 2005
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Having tasted this three or four times in the past, I probably have under-rated this wine because it is such a long-term proposition. The 2005 Volnay Santenot has a dense, almost impenetrable bouquet that demands considerable aeration to unveil its multi-layered aromatic profile of creme de cassis, raspberry, blackberry and a veneer of new oak that needs several more years to be fully absorbed (indeed, it feels like more than the one-third new oak that Dominique uses). The palate is full-bodied with a sweet, succulent entry. It is beautifully balanced, vivacious and sensual with a dab of alcohol on the finish. It is far too young to broach at the moment, but it will develop with style over the next three decades.
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Celebrated as some of the best wine in the universe, red wine from Burgundy, otherwise known as red Burgundy, is Pinot noir. In fact Burgundy is the birthplace of Pinot noir and the source of the planet’s most sensual, delicate, valuable and sought-after Pinot noir wines.
Understanding and enjoying red Burgundy can stay simple, with a basic knowledge of its subregions, become more intricate by dialing down to the villages and vineyards or become a life-long passion, exploring climats (plots of vines), vintages and the post French Revolution land ownership laws. In any case, a fine red Burgundy will display refined nuances of black currant, red fruit, earth, spice, alluring floral aromatics and have great elegance, complexity and longevity.
Most famous, praised and collected of Burgunday are those from the Côte d'Or. Hundreds of millions of years ago, the area now called Côte d'Or was under a warm ocean whose sea floor has, over time, shifted and decomposed into various layers of limestone, sandstone and clay interspersed with ancient fossilized sea creatures. This is what is referred to as the famous escarpment upon which all of the highly sought-after Grands Crus and Premiers Crus vineyards can be found. In other words, from north to south, the best vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Flagey-Echezeaux, Nuits-St-Georges, Aloxe-Corton, Pommard and Volnay follow the path of this ancient sea bed.