Domaine Giacometti Sempre Cuntentu 2020
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In an arid, rugged offshoot of the Patrimonio appellation known as the Désert des Agriates, the Giacometti family creates wines that reflect the rustic nature of the land without sacrificing approachability or generous, juicy fruit. The perfume of this Sciaccarellu leaps out of the glass with such exuberance that it can barely be contained, flamboyantly mimicking the vivid scent of fresh-pressed berries, as if a fistful of ripe summer fruit had been smooshed against a hot stone. The name is Corsican for “always happy,” and you’ll understand exactly why immediately upon pulling the cork.
The Giacometti family boldly moved to the large, rugged, empty, and arid Agriates Desert in 1987, taking over vines that had been planted in 1966. The appellation authorities granted Patrimonio appellation status to these vines, even though the estate is several miles from the village of Patrimonio and other vineyards. Given the isolation of the domaine, word of the wines and the estate haven't travelled far, though an important and loyal Corsican clientele has permitted the domaine to thrive. The Giacomettis have long made a generous, approachable style of Patrimonio, similar to what has traditionally been served by the pitcher at the Corsican dinner table. The terroir here provides conditions that allow the Niellucciu vines to forage deep into the granite rock for nutrients and to ripen without excess.
To find the estate one needs to venture far from the one paved road of the region, and a good 4x4 vehicle is essential. The founder, Christian Giacometti, has gradually been handing over the reins to his daughter Sarah and son Simon after 25 years of constant and heroic labor to make wine in an inhospitable land. The kids are all right, as they say, continuing on with their unique and eminently drinkable style of Patrimonio, all the while experimenting with Sciaccarellu plantings (extremely rare for Patrimonio) and offering a glimpse of great things to come.
Beyond the usual suspects, there are hundreds of red grape varieties grown throughout the world. Some are indigenous specialties capable of producing excellent single varietal wines, while others are better suited for use as blending grapes. Each has its own distinct viticultural characteristics, as well as aroma and flavor profiles, offering much to be discovered by the curious wine lover. In particular, Portugal and Italy are known for having a multitude of unique varieties but they can really be found in any region.
A mountainous, Mediterranean island covered in vineyards, Corsica, while closer to Italy in proximity and history, is today under France's political jurisdiction. The island is home to a mix of Italian and French grapes, typically planted at high elevations. Niellucciu (Sangiovese), Sciacarellu (Mammolo), and Vermentino (Rolle) are the main grape varieties of Corsica, and account for about two thirds of all Corsican wines produced.