Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Porrets St. Georges Premier Cru 2017
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Wong
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Dunnuck
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Morris
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Somm Note
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Decanter
This hails from a mid-slope premier cru on the south side of Nuits and mixes clay and limestone soils within the Gouges' 3.7ha monopole. It’s an intense, aromatic and comparatively early-drinking style with some chalky freshness, medium-weight tannins and a hint of volatility.
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Wilfred Wong of Wine.com
COMMENTARY: The 2017 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Porrets St-Georges is excellent. TASTING NOTES: This wine is complete from start to finish. Enjoy its explosion of black fruit in its aroma and on its palate. Pair its boldness with a thick-sliced of Prime Rib. (Tasted: May 6, 2019, San Francisco, CA)
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Des Porrets ratchets up the intensity noticeably yet shares a similar sunny, rounded, almost sexy style. Wonderful ripe strawberries and blueberry fruit as well as ample notes of violets, flowers, lavender, and spicy wood all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, an expansive, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and bright yet integrated acidity. This is a beautifully complex, balanced Clos Des Porrets that has plenty of upfront charm and appeal, yet the balance and class to evolve for 15-20 years or more. As I wrote last year, the style at this estate has change dramatically over the past handful of years and the wines today are more balanced, charming, and approachable, and I suspect will age even better than wines of the past.
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Jasper Morris
In barrel, more backward, much darker purple, a definite reduction and a slightly more austere style anyway. A wealth of dark cherry fruit on the palate, slightly toughened by the reductive element which will depart, good fresh acidity at the back too, and the fruit finishes a little fresher than it starts. Good potential here and I like the crunch at the back.
Barrel Sample: 91-93 -
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Aromas of wild berries and forest floor mingle with notions of grilled game and raw cocoa in a complex bouquet, framed by cedary new oak, introducing the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets Saint Georges. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and decidedly velvety for a young Clos des Porrets, with ripe tannins, tangy acids and a long, succulent finish.
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Wine & Spirits
From a nine-acre vineyard on pink limestone, this wine has the zesty freshness of wild strawberries and Cara Cara oranges. It has Nuits richness without sweetness, concentration without any sense of weight. A cool stoniness to the tannins brightens the flavor as it lasts. It’s refreshing and well worth aging for five years or more.
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Wine Spectator
This is fresh, delivering violet, black cherry and black currant flavors, matched to a vibrant structure. The tannins are light yet sufficiently dense to exert moderate grip on the spicy finish. Best from 2021 through 2033.
Other Vintages
2020-
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The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of 400 years of family grape farmers, and it is, in many minds, the top domaine in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Henri formed the domaine in 1920 but was soon discouraged with selling the fruit to négociants. He envisioned a better quality wine, and by 1933, he was producing, bottling, and selling directly. He, along with the Marquis d’Angerville from Volnay, was at the forefront of battles against fraud in Burgundy in the 1920s. In the 1930s, Monsieur Gouges was one of the people charged with the job of delineating the crus in Burgundy for the Institut National d’Appellation d’Origine, and he was a member of that regulatory body at its outset. Since the beginning, the domaine has remained an undivided family property. In 1967 Henri’s two sons, Michel and Marcel, succeeded him and added to the holdings of the estate. Each of them handed leadership over to one of their sons to bring the domaine to the next stage. Pierre and Christian began the modernization of the vineyards and the winery, which they have now turned over to Pierre’s son, Gregory, and his cousin, Antoine. While the house style has evolved, the main focus is the better reflection of the terroir in the fruit through organic viticulture. They believe that healthy vines produce quality fruit and thus more expressive terroir-driven wines.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Inhabiting the bottom end of the northern half of the Côte d’Or, Nuits-St-Georges is a busy, market-driven town and home to many of Burgundy’s negociants. It is also the largest town in the Côte d’Or after Beaune and contributes "nuits" to the name of Côte de Nuits (i.e., the northern half of the Côte d’Or).
The appellation itself is divided into two parts, where in the north it directly borders Vosne-Romanée, the southerly end is the commune of Prémeaux. There are no Grands Crus in this village, though it does have a large number of Premiers Crus.
The best Nuits-St-Georges Pinot Noir are layered with cherry, plum, underbrush and sandalwood. The fruit is sweet, the wine energetic, and the finish long and lush.