Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Premier Cru Blanc 2017
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Generally regarded as Burgundy's best Aligoté, this comes from a 1ha holding within Ponsot's monopole premier cru. Taut, focussed and very mineral with a marked influence from the Combe Grisard, this has flavours of green apple, pear and fresh pastry, with a waxy, textured, lightly wooded finish.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc bursts from the glass with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, waxy citrus rind, orange oil and warm pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and elegant, it's chalky and incisive, with fine concentration and cut, concluding with a precise, mineral finish.
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Jasper Morris
(Tasted separately from the 150th anniversary). Fine pale colour. The 2017 has a beautifully balanced bouquet. Spring flowers, white fruit, a little touch of lime without the salt, intriguingly integrated, balanced and very persistent. The 2017 Clos des Monts Luisants has really kicked on since I first tasted it in the Ponsot cellars. 12.5% alcohol.
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Vineyard Brands has history spanning more than 40 years of buying wines from Domaine Ponsot - first from Hippolyte Ponsot, later from his son Jean-Marie, and most recently from Laurent and Rose-Marie. Domaine Ponsot’s history begins in 1872 when William Ponsot purchased a wine estate in Morey-Saint-Denis and set up his home there. His major parcels of land at that time were the Clos des Monts-Luisants and Clos de la Roche. His nephew and godson, Hippolyte Ponsot, took over the domaine in 1920, and in 1932 started bottling his entire harvest at the domaine, a rarity for the time. Eventually estate was passed down to Hippolyte’s son Jean-Marie, and later to Jean-Marie’s children, Laurent and Rose-Marie. Today, Rose-Marie Ponsot is the sole director of the company, seconded by Alexandre Abel. Unfettered by the latest fashions, Domaine Ponsot has always sought to express the richness of Burgundy terroir through natural cultivation practices. Human intervention is limited and only applied to the help that the vine needs. The family’s long tradition of letting nature take the lead work that today the vineyards are in exceptional condition.
A native but unique white grape to Burgundy, Aligoté is a light bodied white that often ends up unfairly lost in Chardonnay’s shadow. In Côte Chalonnaise, in a quaint village named Bouzeron, just south of the Côte de Beaune, Aligoté has its very own appellation where yields are limited in order to enhance flavors, acidity and overall quality. Somm Secret—Curiously, the famous producer, Domaine Ponsot, bottles a 100% Aligoté from its Premier Cru in Morey-Ste-Denis, Les Monts Luisants, made from Aligoté vines planted in 1911.
While Morey-St-Denis of Burgundy might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.