Douloufakis Malvasia Femina 2016
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Robert
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Wine & Spirits
An exceptionally elegant malvasia, this feels like a spring breeze, the fruit crisp and green, the scents fresh, herbal and delicately floral. Grapefruit-like acidity rides through the wine, keeping it brisk and lively, while notes of fennel and citrus bring to mind a pairing with herb-stuffed grilled fish.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2016 Femina is all Malvasia di Candia–from Crete–unoaked, dry and coming in at 13.5% alcohol. Sourced from limestone-soil vineyards at 300 to 400 meters in altitude, this is typically aromatically invigorating, a little grassy, spicy and floral, exuberant on the nose. And it is Malvasia, which tends to have some personality. It is a sure-fire refresher in the summer, but that's not all. It has reasonable concentration for the level and excellent structure. It is tightly wound on the palate, especially now that it is young, finishing with its typical tension. One of my favorite summer refreshers, this is a can't-miss buy if you like fresh whites with personality. It may well age a bit, too (the winery advised five to seven years), but it is a fresh white that benefits greatly from its freshness, so you might not want to bother holding it very long, no matter how long it theoretically lasts.
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Douloufakis Winery is widely recognized in Greece for its excellence in traditional winemaking -- with a focus on the future.
In 1930, Dimitris Douloufakis became one of the first winemakers in Crete to produce wines professionally in his traditional, old winery. A consistent award winner, Dimitris’s grandson, Nikolas, now runs the winery carrying on his grandfather’s traditional practices, but with modern equipment in a new facility.
The privately owned vineyards are certified 100% organic and span over 70 acres reaching 1,800 feet elevation in Dafnes, a village close to Iraklio. This region has a long history in viticulture and also has been established as a Protected Designation of Origin for Liatiko wines. In addition to the natural choice of Liatiko, Nikolas grows other indigenous varieties such as Kotsifali, Vilana, Vidiano, along with other international varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay.
Persistent with jasmine aromas and tropical fruit flavors, both grape and name are far-reaching. Approximately 70 registered grapes contain Malvasia as part of their name or are listed as a synonym. The French call it Malvoisie, Germans call it Malvasier, British say Malmsey and confusingly one variety double-times under the alias, Boal, on the island of Madeira. In any case, Italy has more forms of Malvasia than any other country: Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia di Candia Aromatico and the red-skinned Malvasia di Casorzo from Piedmont. The list goes on. Somm Secret—The actual name could stem from an Italian mispronunciation of Monemvasia, a southern Greek port.
As one of Greece’s largest island’s, its wines enjoyed high glory during the Middle Ages. Today Crete is full of ambitious winemakers with the city of Heraklion as its viticultural hub.