This is dry Beaujolais, boasting as much structure as fruit. The tannins are prominent, underpinning the spicy black berry fruits. The effect is rich, a wine that will age well over 2–3 years.
Duboeuf's 2009 Julienas Chateau des Capitains – from the upper reaches of its appellation – was, as usual, matured in small part in barrique. Boysenberry and cassis offer a seamless, engagingly, juicy, and less superficially sweet account of themselves than in the corresponding Seigneurie bottling. There is at most only a tiny bit of warmth in the finish, and that is more than offset by lip-smacking persistence of pure berry fruit and a shrimp shell-like sweet, saline savor. With the right richness of cuisine, this cool-weather cru should perform admirably.
This spice-driven red is framed by dusty tannins and ripe acidity, with flavors of kirsch and blackberry intertwined with clove, anise and smoke notes. An understated, elegant Juliénas.
Georges DuboeufView all wine
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