Fleury Pere et Fils Extra Brut 1995
There's a pleasing tension to this fresh Champagne, refined in texture and very elegant overall, offering a creamy mousse, a vein of saline-tinged minerality and flavors of chopped almond, vanilla pastry, poached quince and black currant. This is aging gracefully. Drink now through 2029.
Rarely has a 1995 Champagne presented itself with the kind of drive and structural power of this Fleury. With acidity that may bring tears to your eyes, this is not for the faint of heart. That extreme acidity tingles in the mouth, leaving flavors of pineapple, caramel candied lime and ginger in its wake. It requires crudo or sashimi—belly tuna would be insanely great with this wine.
Vivid gold. Intriguingly perfumed, nuanced aromas of candied orange, Anjou pear, vanilla bean and honey, with a vibrant vein of chalky minerality. At once tangy and rich, displaying lively citrus and orchard fruit flavors buffered by deeper honey and floral qualities. In my experience no-dosage Champagnes are best consumed within a few years of their release rather than stashed in the cellar so I'd drink this complex, energetic bottling sooner than later. This producer, which raises its wines in barriques, farms its vines biodynamically, a relative rarity in Champagne.