Francis Tannahill The Hermit Pinot Noir 2011
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From their multi-clonal (multi-root stock) vineyard near Archery Summit's Red Hills Estate, Francis and Tannahill's 2011 Pinot Noir Hermit shares none of the firmness that led me to characterize its 2009 predecessor as austere (though somewhat impressive), and here there is a fascinating wealth of nuance which that wine did not evince (on its one youthful presentation to me, anyway). A greenhouse like amalgam of floral and leafing things – gradually resolving into lovely allusions to iris and violet – vies for aromatic attention with plum and cherry, that go on to inform a juicy, silken-textured, glycerol-rich palate. Hints of wild ginger and iris root along with black tea smokiness and fruit pit piquancy add intrigue as well as invigoration. "All through the Rex Hill portfolio," opines Tannahill, "as well as here, the wines are becoming unforced." I think I’m agreeing with that sentiment at least as regards this "Hermit," when I note that it seems somehow at home in its own skin, certainly with no impression of overt oakiness or over-extraction, but with purity as well as profound length, and the energy and brightness typical for its vintage in balanced harmony with richness and perfume.
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Home of the first Pinot noir vineyard of the Willamette Valley, planted by David Lett of Eyrie Vineyard in 1966, today the Dundee Hills AVA remains the most densely planted AVA in the valley (and state). To its north sits the Chehalem Valley and to its south, runs the Willamette River. Within the region’s 12,500 acres, about 1,700 are planted to vine on predominantly basalt-based, volcanic, Jory soil.