Gaja Sperss (1.5 Liter Magnum) 2008
Good full, deep red. Compelling perfume of musky strawberry, wild game, smoky minerality and underbrush. Broad and sweet, but with outstanding definition and a magically light touch to its fruit, mineral and spice flavors. Wonderfully brisk, complete wine with an explosive back end featuring great tannic structure and outstanding aromatic lift. I wouldn't call this powerful wine fat or silky, but it's utterly seamless and incredibly suave. Should be a cellar classic.
The 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn't anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from the Marenca and Rivette vineyards in Serralunga. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.
Gaja's Sperss was once a Barolo but now occupies a category all its own as a Nebbiolo from the Langhe region—the producer famously declassified his top wines. This shows extreme elegance and sophistication with fine nuances of forest fruit, spice, dried tobacco, licorice and Spanish cedar. The finish is long, polished and bright. Drink after 2020.