Granbazan Etiqueta Ambar Albarino 2013
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James
Suckling
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James Suckling
Here’s impressive proof that the albarino grape can mature in the bottle. Plenty of candied-lemon, honeycomb and dried-flower aromas. Then racy elegance on the medium-bodied palate, making this both refreshing and exciting. Long, very clean finish with some mineral intensity. Drink now.
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Ask a Spanish wine professional to name the leading and best Albarino, and chances are they'll reply Granbazan. Founded in 1981, Granbazan was the original quality pioneer in the region, the first estate to invest in modern winemaking equipment and trained enologists, the first to use clean, free run juice and cool fermentation and to realize the world class potential of the Albarino grape.
Granbazan farms 17 hectares of Albarino vines in Val do Salnes, the sub-region of the Rias Baixas which is centered around the town of Cambados. Val do Salnes is the site of the oldest Albarino plantations. It is also the coldest and wettest of the five sub-regions. The average temperature for the year is 55°F and it rarely exceeds 85°F, even in the hottest part of the summer. Grapes are trained in the traditional pergola fashion and soils are based on granite with alluvial topsoil.
Granbazan remains ahead of the chasing pack, with its privileged terroir of granite soils planted with mature vines close to the sea, and its continuing commitment to excellence.
Bright and aromatic with distinctive floral and fruity characteristics, Albariño has enjoyed a surge in popularity and an increase in plantings over the last couple of decades. Thick skins allow it to withstand the humid conditions of its homeland, Rías Baixas, Spain, free of malady, and produce a weighty but fresh white. Somm Secret—Albariño claims dual citizenship in Spain and Portugal. Under the name Alvarinho, it thrives in Portugal’s northwestern Vinho Verde region, which predictably, borders part of Spain’s Rías Baixas.
Named after the rías, or estuarine inlets, that flow as far as 20 miles inland, Rías Baixas is an Atlantic coastal region with a cool and wet maritime climate. The entire region claims soil based on granite bedrock, but the inlets create five subregions of slightly different growing environments for its prized white grape, Albariño.
Val do Salnés on the west coast is said to be the birthplace of Albariño; it is the coolest and wettest of all of the regions. Having been named as the original subregion, today it has the most area under vine and largest number of wineries.
Ribeira do Ulla in the north and inland along the Ulla River is the newest to be included. It is actually the birthplace of the Padrón pepper!
Soutomaior is the smallest region and is tucked up in the hills at the end of the inlet called Ria de Vigo. Its soils are light and sandy over granite.
O Rosal and Condado do Tea are the farthest south in Rías Baixas and their vineyards actually cover the northern slopes of the Miño River, facing the Vinho Verde region in Portugal on its southern bank.
Albariño gives this region its fame and covers 90% of the area under vine. Caiño blanco, Treixadura and Loureira as well as occasionally Torrontés and Godello are permitted in small amounts in blends with Albariño. Red grapes are not very popular but Mencía, Espadeiro and Caiño Tinto are permitted and grown.