Hermann J. Wiemer HJW Vineyard Riesling 2019
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James
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Winemaker Notes
Planted in 1976, the HJW Vineyard features Hermann’s original plantings on Seneca Lake. Mature vines combined with the site’s shallow topsoil and shale bedrock produce lower yields resulting in expressively vibrant flavors. Higher elevation and a greater distance from Seneca Lake contribute to a cooler growing season, resulting in a leaner, more austere wine with intense flavor and an excellent aging potential.
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2019 Riesling HJW Vineyard comes in with six grams of residual sugar and 12% alcohol. It tastes obviously and perceptibly dry, but never shrill. This was sourced from HJW vines planted in 1977. Typically my favorite of the single-vineyard Rieslings, this is on track for that designation, although this year the single-vineyard Josef is particularly beautiful, and the Reserve blend is no slouch. This is still very fine, and it might well be the winner if we repeat this exercise in 2027. There's a trace of pear and fine acidity supporting the good fruit. Like some of its siblings this year, it is a little on the understated, delicate and elegant side on opening, but the power showed more obviously when I came back to this some hours later. It was firmer and longer on the finish. I admit to being surprised at how well it developed, as its impeccable balance was initially deceptive. It seemed a little too understated, but it has plenty of substance.
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Wine Enthusiast
Incredibly zesty yet rich aromas of apple, lemon peel and chamomile dazzle on the nose of this single-vineyard wine. It’s rounded and ripe in feel on the palate, yet immensely lifted by vibrant acidity. Juicy apple, peach and yellow blossom flavors never falter, with a delicate crushed stone element adding zip to the lingering finish. Drink through 2030.
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James Suckling
Apricots, golden apples, honeysuckle, chalk and lemon cream on the nose. Hint of nutmeg, too. It’s medium-bodied with sharp acidity and a ripe, supple and creamy palate. Long and delicious. Dry. Drink or hold.
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Wine
Hermann Wiemer was born in Bernkastel, Germany into a family with 300 years experience in making the distinguished vinifera wines of the Mosel Valley. He arrived in the United States in 1968 already well versed in the European tradition of fine winemaking. To this heritage he added the skill of grafting fragile vinifera vines onto sturdy American rootstock.
In 1973 he bought 140 acres on the west side of Seneca Lake, which he planted with a variety of European vinifera grapevines. Visitors who wish to see these vines, along with ponds and the six acre nursery, can take the popular Vineyard Walk through the property.
The Winery, which produces 12,000 cases each year, was designed in 1982 by an award winning team of Cornell architects. Enclosed within the shell of a seventy-year-old scissor-trussed barn, it accommodates a laboratory, tasting and retail sales, a wine production area and a private tasting room. Its unique white cathedral-like interior counterpoints the bare wooden walls and sleek Italian stainless steel tanks.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
As the most historic wine-producing region in New York state, winemaking in the Finger Lakes area dates back to the 1820s and today as a region, accounts for 90% of the state’s total wine production.
Its narrow and deep lakes created by the movement of Ice Age glaciers create an environment similar to the classic Riesling-loving regions of Europe, namely Germany and Austria. The Finger Lakes retain summer heat that incidentally warms up cold winter air, making it fall down from the lakes’ steep slopes. When spring comes, the lakes, already cooled by cold winter weather, stave off vine budding until the danger of frost has subsided. The main lakes of the zone, that is those big enough to moderate the climate in this way, are the focal points of prime vineyard areas. They include Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga.
While Riesling has fueled most of the region’s success, today Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc enjoy some attention.