Hermann J. Wiemer Magdalena Vineyard Riesling 2016
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
he 2016 Riesling Magdalena Vineyard comes in with nine grams of residual sugar and 12.5% alcohol. It's fruity, dry, very aromatic and focused. Showing beautiful purity of fruit and sensual texture, this is what a lot of folks will want in a Riesling. Although nine grams of sugar isn't typically all that much in the Finger Lakes, this doesn't show a hint of austerity, at least not early on. It is also nicely concentrated. Some in the Finger Lakes focus more on that zing and zest from acidity. (Diversity in style is a great thing for a region, and I love those, too, so don't misunderstand.) Wiemer, though, has the concentration that provides a different and more accessible balance. There is still plenty of acidity here, which becomes very much clearer when you retaste it the next day. As it warms, the finish becomes far more intense on the second day tasted as this becomes drier and zippier. As with all of Wiemer's gems this issue, this only begins to show all it has with a lot of time and air. (For the record, after three days, I liked this better than the regular HJW.) The fruit still easily matches the acidity, however, and makes this perfectly harmonious. If this is fruitier and sexier on opening than most of the upper-level this issue, those are merely relative adjectives, because there is plenty of power here too. That's ultimately what will make it special.
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Wine & Spirits
In 2016, the Magdalena Vineyard’s proximity to Seneca Lake provided a cooling effect, contributing to this wine’s exceptional depth of flavor (eight separate picks through the vineyard helped, too). Starting off with scents of peach and ripe apple, the wine has a lanolin richness, a weight that feels wholly satisfying and effortless. Though it has plenty of fine acidity, it’s not a wine of energy so much as completeness, with a cradling palate presence, an ideal foil for something rich and spicy, like a Japanese curry.
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James Suckling
Apricot, pineapple and hibiscus aromas pour from the glass of this concentrated and very succulent riesling that’s just off-dry. Long, complex finish in which ripe and mineral components are beautifully integrated. This will slowly turn in a drier direction as it ages. Drink or hold.
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Hermann Wiemer was born in Bernkastel, Germany into a family with 300 years experience in making the distinguished vinifera wines of the Mosel Valley. He arrived in the United States in 1968 already well versed in the European tradition of fine winemaking. To this heritage he added the skill of grafting fragile vinifera vines onto sturdy American rootstock.
In 1973 he bought 140 acres on the west side of Seneca Lake, which he planted with a variety of European vinifera grapevines. Visitors who wish to see these vines, along with ponds and the six acre nursery, can take the popular Vineyard Walk through the property.
The Winery, which produces 12,000 cases each year, was designed in 1982 by an award winning team of Cornell architects. Enclosed within the shell of a seventy-year-old scissor-trussed barn, it accommodates a laboratory, tasting and retail sales, a wine production area and a private tasting room. Its unique white cathedral-like interior counterpoints the bare wooden walls and sleek Italian stainless steel tanks.