Immich-Batterieberg Ellergrub Riesling 2012
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2012 Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling is another pure, fresh and dusty scented Riesling from Gernot Kollmann's Immich-Batterieberg. Sourced from weathered blue slate, it offers crispbread, farina, lemons, yellow apples and pears along with delicate herbal flavors on the nose leading to a full-bodied and very pure, crystalline and fresh palate with a lingering salinity and salivating finish. With only 11.5% of alcohol and 8 grams per liter of sugar, the dry and refined Ellergrub tastes virtually dry. There is a nice grip and piquancy in the finish, which indicates great aging potential here as well. Compared to the Steffensberg there is more purity and piquancy here, but this wine also needs more time to show its merits.
Rating: 93+
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According to archaeological estimates, the foundation of the building dates from the second half of the 9th century. Especially remarkable is the cellar's load-bearing basalt pillar, which was "recycled" from a nearby Roman estate.
In the 12th Century, the estate was ceded as a fief to Prince von Esch (hence today's Escheburg) and was then remodeled and expanded. The right wing of the property, the "Franzenhaus," was not built until the 16th Century and the "Herrenhaus," richly adorned in the Mosel-Frankish style and which today makes up the left wing, did not appear until the early 1900s.
It was the Immich family – among the oldest winemaking families on the Mosel, with a history that spans from 1425 through 1989 – that was especially crucial to the history and the development of the estate. The winery has them to thank for its most famous site, the Batterieberg, which between 1841 and 1845 was formed into one of the Mosel's top sites by way of ceaseless rounds of dynamite. Batterieberg, along with the older top-tier sites Steffensberg, Ellergrub, and Zeppwingert, are all steep slate slopes and all achieved the highest ranking in the Prussian Vineyard Classification of 1868. Today they comprise the heart of the estate.
Just as important to Immich-Batterieberg as the inherent quality of the vineyards is the available grape material. The winery is delighted to have a very large portion of old, ungrafted vines, from which (because of their genetic diversity and their naturally low yields) the highly differentiated, deep, and site-typical Rieslings come into being.