Jean-Luc Colombo Les Terres Brulees Cornas 2008
Pairs well with all game and red meats.
Although this comes off younger vines than the Louvee, this 2008 is remarkably impressive right now. Although it's hugely extracted, a deep pool of black, plummy juice, it's also shapely, traced by ferrous minerality and firmed with powerful tannins. It comes off chewy and supple, spicy and smooth, a fascinating - and deilcious - exercise in contradictions.
This is Colombo's entry-level Cornas in the U.S., and is a more-than-solid effort from a challenging vintage. Beefy aromas lead the way, with hints of espresso and black olive, adding some cassis and blueberry fruit. This is amply concentrated and firm, with a dusty, lingering finish. Drink 2013-2020.
Ripe, pure and driven, with brisk raspberry, red cherry and red currant fruit laced with iron and maduro tobacco notes. The long, fine-grained finish has a lingering chalky hint. Drink now through 2016.