Johannes Zillinger JZ Velue 2.0 Riesling 2021
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Crunchy texture of this Riesling combined with focused aromas and flavors of clementine, rosemary and sea salt, creates a charming profile that will keep you enticed until the bottle is empty.
Johannes Zillinger learned early on from his father about the craft of organic winemaking, about viewing the vineyard as a habitat and protecting the environment instead of poisoning it. His father Hans turned to organic viticulture in 1983 and was one of its pioneers in Austria. (That transition was just two years before the anti-freeze scandal, when a number of Austrian winemakers were found to have added diethylene-glycol to enhance the texture of their wines.) When Johannes took over the winery and made it his own in 2013, he took it ever further, transitioning to biodynamics and starting a new chapter for the 350 year old winery. His wines are certified Demeter biodynamic, and Johannes believes wholeheartedly in the philosophy of biodynamic farming. He grows his own herbs for tea tinctures to use as treatments in his vineyards. The wines are all spontaneously fermented, lightly filtered, and minimally sulfured only at bottling.
Johannes has several lines of wines, all of which are unique and delicious. The Velue series pays homage to its source, referencing the old name of the village Velm- Goetzendorf. These varietally labelled wines are biodynamically farmed and vinified in a crisp easy-drinking style with lots of structure and excellent balance. Johannes’ Revolution wines express his interpretation of exciting everyday wines that are far from average. Revolution wines are unique blends that feature brief fermentations on the skins, the inclusion of Solera system or multi- vintage blends, and the use of clay amphora. The Parcellaire wines are from cool plots located near forested areas in Johannnes' top vineyards. Finally, Numen references the metaphysical process, or the idea of magical power residing in an object – that which humans cannot influence – and is indicative of Johannes’ hands-off approach and reverence for nature. The Numen wines are tiny production wines fermented and aged in clay amphora. These are impeccably made wines with precision, structure, and balance no matter the vintage or cuvee. They are also absolutely delicious.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
The source of Austria’s finest botrytized sweet wines, Burgenland covers a lofty portion of Austria's wine producing real estate. It encompasses the smaller regions of Neusiedlersee, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Mittelburgenland and Südburgenland. The latter two are most associated with their exceptional red wines. The region as a whole produces no shortage of important whites.
Neusiedlersee, named for the lake that it surrounds to the east, is home to a great diversity of grape varieties. The region’s most notable wines, however, are the botrytis-infected, sweet versions.
Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, which wraps the lake on its western side, includes the town of Rust, a historically esteemed wine community. Its close proximity to the lake’s fog and mist make it another source of some of the more prestigious botrytized wines. Neusiedlersee-Hügelland also produces fine Blaufränkisch, Pinot Blanc, Neuburger and Grüner Veltliner, though a label will usually name the more general, Burgenland, so as not to confuse it with its eastern cousin, Neusiedlersee, across the lake.
Blaufränkisch is well suited to and makes up over half of the vineyard area in Mittelburgenland. The region’s hills and plateaus, which are composed of variations in schist, loess and clay-limestone, produce high quality reds with interesting diversity.
Südburgenland, also known for its deep, complex and age-worthy Blaufränkisch, is beginning to turn out some alluring whites from Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc).