Jurtschitsch Stein Gruner Veltliner 2016
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Grapefruit, salt, and wet rock, refreshing, rejuvenating and appetizing– all these attributes are found on the nose and the palate. Stone fruit completes the array of aromas. Definitely a terroir wine. The structure is compact and tightly woven while the style is cool and elegant and a fine texture coats the mouth. The Stein is playful and refreshing, yet is by no means superficial.
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A spray of white pepper, lemon and green pear plays on the nose. The spicy palate majors in savory, yeasty notes of white pepper, miso, pea shoot and arugula, all brightened by lemon freshness. The slender and balanced palate is chock-full of flavor and leaves a lasting impression to savor.
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As early as the 1930's the Sonnhof estate was renowned for its pioneering efforts in viticulture and in winemaking – efforts that drew well-deserved praise in the following decades, especially from the 1960's on. At that time the estate of Josef Jurtschitsch was the most highly awarded winery in Langenlois.
Fun to say and delightfully easy to drink, Grüner Veltliner calls Austria its homeland. While some easily quaffable Grüners come in a one-liter—a convenient size—many high caliber single vineyard bottlings can benefit from cellar aging. Somm Secret—About 75% of the world’s Grüner Veltliner comes from Austria but the variety is gaining ground in other countries, namely Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and the United States.
Climbing north and slightly east of the Kremstal region, Kamptal has very little vineyard area bordering the Danube River (unlike Wachau and Kremstal, whose vineyards run along it). The region takes its name from the river called Kamp, which traverses it north and south. Kamptal’s densely planted vineyards represent eight percent of Austria’s total.
The area experiences wide diurnal temperature variations like the Wachau but with less rain and more frost. Its vast geologic diversity makes it suitable for various experimentations with other varieties besides Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, St. Laurent and Zweigelt.
But the region is probably most noted for the beautiful and expansive terraced Heiligenstein, arguably one of the world’s top Riesling sites, as well as some of Austria’s most extraordinary Grüner Veltliner vineyards. Kamptal’s soils, which are mostly loess and sand with some gravel and rocks, make it suitable for Grüner Veltliner, so much so that actually half of the zone is planted to that grape.