Kir-Yianni Ramnista Vineyard Xinomavro (1.5 Liter Magnum) 2015
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Wine & Spirits
This broadcasts its freshness and youth in its cherry-red color and berry scents. But don’t be seduced into drinking this now: Pulled from the oldest vines in Yiannakohori, the Boutari family’s estate vineyards in Naoussa, it’s concentrated and firm. There’s an iron filigree of tannins defending the fruit, and vivacious acidity underlining its intention to preserve the wine for many more years. Forget about this in the cellar for at least five years; then draw it out for a crown roast of pork.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Ramnista is the winery's classic Xinomavro, aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak. It comes in at 13% alcohol. Sourced entirely from Yianakohori, Naoussa, this is traditional in all senses of the word. It is the familiar style of Xinomavro—a little earthy, rustic and crisp—that makes me compare it to old-school Nebbiolo. True, not everyone holds to that style, including Kir-Yianni with its Diaporos bottling this issue. This is iconic, though. It is pretty tight right now, a bit too dusty. Yet, with about two hours of air, it comes around surprisingly well. (That's not always the case!) For all of the power, the amber and freshness, there is also a certain lushness and fine fruit. This will still benefit greatly from about three more years or so in the cellar. Or, you can take it to your BYOB pizza shop tonight, serve it blind and watch the guys from the old country go: "I love Nebbiolo!"
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Robert
Native to Greece, Xinomavro is widely regarded the finest red wine of the country. Its name literally means “acid black”, and attains fullest potential in the country’s northwest region of Naoussa. These single varietal bottlings of Xinomavro (blending is not allowed here) are often compared to the fine Barolos of Italy for their structure, finesse and age-worthiness. While its vines are fickle and blue-black grapes grow in tight clusters, similar to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro actually appears unrelated. Somm Secret—The use of French oak can help tame Xinomavro but too much can overwhelm it. Some eschew oak entirely during winemaking; other producers use locally-grown walnut.
Naoussa is home to one of Greece’s most age-worthy reds: Xinomavro. Flourishing on the sun-exposed, southeastern-facing slopes of Mount Vermio between 700 to 1,700 feet in elevation, some say Xinomavro is Greece's red counterpart to its famous white, Assyrtiko. Others liken it to Italy's well-respected, highly perfumed and powerful, Nebbiolo.