Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista Vineyard 2016
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Rare aromatic complexity with intense tannin structure and robust acidity. An excellent pair for red meat and game.
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Yiannis Boutari treats his estate as an experimental vineyard, planting multiple clones of xinomavro in a vast array of configurations. This bottling comes off of plots on lighter soils, the fruit chosen for its aromatic complexity. The wine shows xinomavro in all its fragrant detail, notes of cedar, pepper, roses and smoked meat sweeping through its dark cherry fruit on brisk acidity. With fine, grippy tannins, the wine feels smooth but not overpolished—it still needs a roast leg of lamb to show its best, or another five to ten years in the cellar.
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Native to Greece, Xinomavro is widely regarded the finest red wine of the country. Its name literally means “acid black”, and attains fullest potential in the country’s northwest region of Naoussa. These single varietal bottlings of Xinomavro (blending is not allowed here) are often compared to the fine Barolos of Italy for their structure, finesse and age-worthiness. While its vines are fickle and blue-black grapes grow in tight clusters, similar to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro actually appears unrelated. Somm Secret—The use of French oak can help tame Xinomavro but too much can overwhelm it. Some eschew oak entirely during winemaking; other producers use locally-grown walnut.
Naoussa is home to one of Greece’s most age-worthy reds: Xinomavro. Flourishing on the sun-exposed, southeastern-facing slopes of Mount Vermio between 700 to 1,700 feet in elevation, some say Xinomavro is Greece's red counterpart to its famous white, Assyrtiko. Others liken it to Italy's well-respected, highly perfumed and powerful, Nebbiolo.