Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle 2011
Serve with rich appetizers including foie gras, or fish or shellfish in cream sauce.
One of the more intensely mineral Chassagnes in the range, the Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Clos De La Chapellet is drop-dead gorgeous. Flint, smoke, graphite, tangerine and almond notes all blossom in a Chassagne that is at once powerful yet refined. The flavors are vivid and totally nuanced in this impeccable Morgeot from Jadot.
This was the first time I had been back to Louis Jadot’s expansive winery on the northern outskirts of Beaune since their memorable 150th anniversary tasting back in 2008. As I quipped in the previous issue, Jacques Lardiere was then talking about his imminent retirement that seemed to never come. But on this occasion, there was new winemaker Frederic Barnier there to greet me. He has large shoes to fill but he seems up to the task of steering this important Burgundy name to a new chapter, having worked alongside Jacques for a couple of years. “At the beginning, we were not so confident about the whites,” he explained in reference to his 2011s, “but it has been a nice surprise. The dry spring of 2011 affected the level of ripeness but it has lent freshness, but with low acidity.” We did not have time to taste the entire portfolio of over 80 crus, but instead took a sample of 20 white and reds from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages.
Bright lemon-yellow. Complex aromas of citrus peel, pear, minerals and anise. Juicy, brisk and penetrating, with lovely inner-mouth floral character to the delineated fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes with very good sneaky length and a firm citrus spine that calls for four or five years of cellaring. Pungent and backward for this bottling. This vineyard, along with the Abbaye de Morgeot and Caillerets, were affected by both spring frost and hail in 2011, noted Frederic Barnier.
This is also notably ripe with aromas of dried yellow orchard fruit and hints of the exotic along with soft floral nuances. There is noticeable wood on the opulent and exceptionally rich and solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess good muscle on the palate coating finish. This is not an elegant wine but it does offer plenty of character.
Barrel Sample: 88-91 Points