Luigi Einaudi Barolo Cannubi 2004
The Einaudi family has its roots in Dogliani, but in 1997 they acquired just over five acres of Cannubi, one of the most acclaimed crus in Barolo. In 2004, Einaudi produced its best Cannubi yet, an aristocratic expression of nebbiolo that feels almost perfectly formed. There's immediacy to the wine's beauty, an arresting floral aroma that recalls a walk through a rose garden at sunrise, the dew clinging softly to the petals and earth. And while the wine feels soft at first, with subtle flavors of cherries and rose, it soon reveals the firm structure and mineral expression at its heart. Its evolution continues for several days, maintaining a freshness and vibrancy that's utterly compelling. Gentle and elegant, yet drawing power from its broad, succulent middle, this '04 is a must for any serious Barolo lover. It will continue to evolve for decades.
Good deep red. Musky, carnal nose hints at excellent vinosity but is currently dominated by oak. Then huge, full and classic, with terrific concentration and a powerful underlying structure. At once sweet in its fruity character and classically dry. Best today on the minerally, floral, scented back end, where the tannins are ripe and smooth. This producer has been on a serious upward curve in recent years. It wasn't too long ago that the Einaudi wines were strong but distinctly rustic. Today's wines are pure, with no loss of power or structure.
The estate's classy, elegant 2004 Barolo Nei Cannubi is even more promising. It reveals a richly concentrated personality with the compelling perfumed inner sweetness that is the hallmark of this great vineyard. The wine offers terrific energy and structure, with gorgeous, silky tannins that round out the sweet, lingering finish. The Cannubi was still in oak when I tasted it in mid-November 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024.