Marimar Estate Dona Margarita Vineyard Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir 2007
From a high-density planting six miles from the sea, this vintage of Mas Cavalls blends a California heritage clone (it's 56 percent Pommard, which creates some of the most transparent and compelling pinots in the right far-coast conditions) with a Dijon clone (115, which contributes to the deep well of dark cherry fruit). The fruits is sweet but the wine is not sweet, layered in licorice scents, Christmas spice, redwood frond and fern - a vinous evocation of the coast that has the power to improve your modd the way ocean air might. (It improved my mood just to smell this wine, particularly a day or two after it was first opened.) It develops beautifully - remarkably tight in its mineral-inflected tannin - an ethereal memory of the Anderson Woods.
Stunningly delicious. A real dazzler in the mouth, offering complex tiers of cherries, raspberries, sweet vanilla, rose petals, cinnamon and clove and smoky sandalwood. This richness is perfectly balanced by crisp, coastal acidity and a hint of tannin astringency. Hard to keep from drinking now, but it should develop over the next six years.