Morey-Coffinet Puligny-Montrachet 2020
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Morey-Coffinet was founded in the late 1970s by Michel Morey (son of the late Marc Morey) and his wife Fabienne (from the Pillot clan). Their son, Thibault, succeeded the couple, taking the helm of the estate in 2009. Thibault joined his father in a long lineage of winemakers in Chassagne-Montrachet with great gravitas in their family names such as Pillot, Morey, and Coffinet. He has earned the respect of his peers through his thoughtful and detailed approach. In 2014, he began to pursue biodynamic viticulture, and in 2015 gained certification.
With a stable foundation of 1er Crus from the southeast-facing hillside, the whites speak to the very essence of Chassagne, with fragrant aromas framed by powerful minerality. The reds capture the roasted, muscular aromas of Chassagne terroir and display silky texture and balance. “When the vines are properly cared for, you can take everything from the skin to the seed,” says Thibault, continuing, “it is a guarantee of complexity and stability in the wine, which will age all the better with moderate doses of SO2.” The oak regimen changes yearly to reflect the vintage, and the aromatics of the wines are expressive and vibrant, with lively tension and energy.
Thibault continues to push the quality of his domaine to a whole different level with his expressive, powerful, wonderfully hedonistic wines, and to much acclaim. Here in the Côte de Beaune, a transition, but not a revolution, is gently in progress.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
A source of some of the finest, juicy, silky and elegantly floral Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet lies just to the north of Chassagne-Montrachet, a village with which it shares two of its Grands Crus vineyards: Le Montrachet itself and Bâtard-Montrachet. Its other two, which it owns in their entirety, are Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. And still, some of the finest white Burgundy wines come from the prized Premiers Crus vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet. To name a few, Les Pucelles, Le Clavoillon, Les Perrières, Les Referts and Les Combettes, as well as the rest, lie northeast and up slope from the Grands Crus.
Farther to the southeast are village level whites and the hamlet of Blagny where Pinot Noir grows best and has achieved Premier Cru status.