Mullineux Family Wines Straw Wine (375ML half-bottle) 2017

In the warm, dry 2017 vintage, Andrea and Chris Mullineux hit it out of the park with their straw wine, a sweet wine from air-dried grapes. The couple, who work with viticulturist Rosa Kruger, blended this vintage from two parcels: a 37-year-old vineyard of chenin on shale on the Kasteelberg mountain in Riebeek Valley, and a cool site on the Paarderberg, the mountain range dividing Swartland and Paarl, where old bush vines grow on decomposed granite. Rather than letting the fruit get superripe, they harvested it at normal levels (22° Brix in 2017) and left it to dry in the shade outside for several weeks. They then pressed the bunches whole and racked the juice into barrels, where they let ambient yeasts do the work of fermentation. When the yeasts petered out—after about six months—the Mullineux dosed some barrels with sulfur to preserve the freshness of the wine, and let others oxidize. The end result slips over the tongue like satin, notes of stone fruit, broiled pineapple, honey and marzipan left in its wake. It feels somehow weightless, more like a surround-sound experience than a direct hit, and leaves the body tingling. At 308 grams of sugar per liter, and 11.3 grams of acidity, it’s likely to last for decades in the cellar.

Immense sweetness and concentration on the palate, with an unctuous texture infused by riveting acidity. Spicy, stem ginger, tropical fruit, honey-baked quince and apple flavours, along with a suggestion of panettone. This is a long, layered and vibrant sweet wine style. Drinking Window 2020 - 2032

Dried peach stones, apricot tart, dried mangoes, caramelized oranges, creme brulee, banoffee pie, a touch of citrus, orange marmalade and creme caramel. Sweet with a dense, full, oily texture, but there’s some lovely, high acidity right at the back of the palate.