Olivares Dulce Monastrell Ungrafted Old Vines (500 ML) 2017
-
Parker
Robert
Product Details
Your Rating
Somm Note
Winemaker Notes
This Dulce is the ultimate expression of Monastrell, with tremendous concentration, persistence and balance. Cherry-red color, with carmine and maroon tones. Complex smelling, the aroma of figs, dates and ripe fruits can be smelled with intensity and freshness.
It combines perfectly with all kind of desserts, specially those made with chocolate, and for contrast, with blue and aged cheeses.
Professional Ratings
-
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
I just love the expressive nose of tomato vine, Mediterranean herbs and black olive of the 2017 Dulce Monastrell, a sweet fortified red I had already tasted and which seems to be evolving at a glacial pace. It has the tannin and structure of the dry red wines from the region, balanced by some 230 grams of acidity and fortified to 16% alcohol. The tannins and alcohol make the wine come through as balanced and not as sweet as you might imagine given the amount of sugar it has. This is bottled unoaked and matured exclusively in bottle. It's the Mediterranean alternative to a young Ruby Port.
For Jumilla, the key to its vineyards' survival was their sandy soil—which is anathema to the Phylloxera insect. As a glorious consequence, Jumilla not only has some of the oldest vines in the world, but also the largest number of ungrafted vines. Most of these vines are Mourvèdre, or Monastrell as it is locally known, one of the most prized varieties of Mediterranean Europe. And Jumilla's summers boast hot days and cool nights, perfect for ripening grapes, while maintaining acidity.
Today, Jumilla is awakening to its vast potential, and a winemaking revolution has followed — led by growers like Olivares' Paco Selva. He owns 65+ hectares of ungrafted old vineyards in the northern part of the appellation, called La Hoya de Santa Ana. It is the coolest sub-zone of Jumilla, with sandy, lime-rich soils that yield intensely aromatic wines, while protecting the ungrafted vines from Phylloxera.
Apart from the classics, we find many regional gems of different styles.
Late harvest wines are probably the easiest to understand. Grapes are picked so late that the sugars build up and residual sugar remains after the fermentation process. Ice wine, a style founded in Germany and there referred to as eiswein, is an extreme late harvest wine, produced from grapes frozen on the vine, and pressed while still frozen, resulting in a higher concentration of sugar. It is becoming a specialty of Canada as well, where it takes on the English name of ice wine.
Vin Santo, literally “holy wine,” is a Tuscan sweet wine made from drying the local white grapes Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia in the winery and not pressing until somewhere between November and March.
Rutherglen is an historic wine region in northeast Victoria, Australia, famous for its fortified Topaque and Muscat with complex tawny characteristics.
Famous for the robust and earthy, black-fruit dominated, Monastrell (known as Mourvedre in France), Jumilla is an arid and hot region in southeastern Spain. Its vine yields tend to be torturously low but this can create wines of exceptional intensity and flavor. Quality combined with accessible price points give the region great recognition on international markets far and wide.
The reds from Jumilla are heady and spicy, packed with fruit and show aromas of dried licorice and herbs. If you like Syrah, Grenache or Pinot noir, a red wine from Jumilla would be a perfect next choice!