Ostertag Heissenberg Riesling 2020
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Robert
Parker
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The notion of terroir takes on even more significance with this bottling from André Ostertag that comes from a very specific site. And what a site it is: a steep southern slope composed of pink sandstone, gneiss, and granite, Heissenberg gives a gloriously complex and full-bodied Riesling with an ample nose and lots of flesh on the palate.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2020 Heissenberg Riesling is from pink sandstone soils in a south-facing, lieu-dit where the summer works have to be done by nine a.m.; otherwise, it becomes too hot. The wine offers a clear, intense and lemony nose with the bright energy and purity of iron-rich sandstone. Full-bodied, lush and intense, with very fine, fresh and vertical acidity, this is a finely textured, lifted, very elegant and crunchy Riesling with delicate blood-orange bitters on the still-young but intense and finely grippy finish that is still drying the palate a bit rather than watering it. This should be served with raw fish, perhaps when young, but it can definitely age and refine for years. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Rating: 93+
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2021- Vinous
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James
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Robert
Parker
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James
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To call André Ostertag a revolutionary winemaker is to tell just half the story. He is a pioneer, certainly, but also an ardent environmentalist. After training in Burgundy, André returned to the family domaine in Alsace with renewed zeal: he lowered yields considerably and introduced viticultural and vinification techniques from other regions to his own home ground. He looks for the nuance of terroir rather than the typicity of a grape varietal. André rejects formulaic, scientifically engineered wines, and since going biodynamic in 1997, has been an active member of the natural farming community.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
With its fairytale aesthetic, Germanic influence and strong emphasis on white wines, Alsace is one of France’s most unique viticultural regions. This hotly contested stretch of land running north to south on France’s northeastern border has spent much of its existence as German territory. Nestled in the rain shadow of the Vosges mountains, it is one of the driest regions of France but enjoys a long and cool growing season. Autumn humidity facilitates the development of “noble rot” for the production of late-picked sweet wines, Vendange Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles.
The best wines of Alsace can be described as aromatic and honeyed, even when completely dry. The region’s “noble” varieties, the only ones permitted within Alsace’s 51 Grands Crus vineyards, are Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, and Pinot Gris.
Riesling is Alsace’s main specialty. In its youth, Alsace Riesling is dry, fresh and floral, but develops complex mineral and flint character with age. Gewurztraminer is known for its signature spice and lychee aromatics, and is often utilized for late harvest wines. Pinot Gris is prized for its combination of crisp acidity and savory spice as well as ripe stone fruit flavors. Muscat, vinified dry, tastes of ripe green grapes and fresh rose petal.
Other varieties grown here include Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Chasselas, Sylvaner and Pinot Noir—the only red grape permitted in Alsace and mainly used for sparkling rosé known as Crémant d’Alsace. Most Alsace wines are single-varietal bottlings and unlike other French regions, are also labeled with the variety name.