Quinta do Vallado Reserva Red 2009
An impressive wine from old vines. The 2009 has an extra depth of richness and full character. The black fruits go deep into the wine, hugely rich while still keeping a dark structure. Powerful and needing aging.
The 2009 Reserva is revisited this issue as part of the vertical presented. A big mouthful in this vintage, this is palate-coating and gripping on the finish, showing its power and a burly demeanor that Vallado, which typically leans to the elegant, usually avoids. For all of that, if it is not the most typical Reserva in the lineup, it is pretty good, bursting with flavor, intense, focused and, yes, a little more dramatic than normal. This is coming along very well. It is still nowhere near peak, but it can be approached.
You've ordered short ribs and now you need a wine to drink with them. If you get this wine decanted, it will come out of the glass in layers of black, purple and dried fruit flavors with extreme, if not austere, tannins. The beef will braise right back into the fruit so you might be able to taste the 20-some-odd varieties that go into it, all from vines with more than 80 years of age, and the younger-vine touriga nacional, that purple-fruited freshness that makes up a third of the blend.