San Felice Chianti Classico 2020
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#24 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2022
Produced entirely from native grapes, it is a typical, medium-bodied Chianti Classico, with a distinguished personality and notable for its elegance and pleasantness. Luminous ruby red. Scents of cherry, raspberry, and sweet violets. Dry on the palate, showing subtle tannins and a fresh, crisp acidity.
At its best when partnered with antipasti, full-flavored first courses, and most red meats.
Professional Ratings
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Wine Spectator
This supple red shows a core of cherry and plum fruit allied to olive, juniper and tobacco notes. Delivers well-integrated tannins and acidic structure, lingering nicely on the finish. Sangiovese, Colorino and Pugnitello. Drink now
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Jeb Dunnuck
Refined and pure, the 2020 Chianti Classico packs in beautiful concentration within its medium frame. Elegantly perfumed with red cherry liqueur, cinnamon, and pressed flowers, it is long with supple red berries, soft edges, and polished tannins, and it remains refreshing. It is drinking wonderfully now and offers a tremendous value.
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James Suckling
A medium-to full-bodied Chianti Classico with fresh strawberries, grapefruit, raspberries and a herbal undertone. This is juicy and transparent with a tight, tannic structure. Not austere, though.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From a hot vintage, the 2020 Chianti Classico shows ripe cherry fruit that is prominent but not overdone. Fresh acidity gives balance to this entry-level red. The 2020 growing season saw frost in April, and yields were down by 30% as a result. The season became very hot and dry toward the end of summer, causing dehydration and the berries to shrink. Fortunately, the vines shut down at the highest temperatures as a defense mechanism, and the wine's color, freshness and fruit flavors were largely protected. This Sangiovese-based wine has tiny percentages of Pugnitello and Colorino in the blend. This is a job well done. Best After 2022
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James
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Agricola San Felice is steeped in local lore and history. Named after a local early Christian Saint from the 18th century, the property was bought by the Grisaldi Del Taja family – the founding members of the Chianti Classico consortium. The family produced wine for several centuries until 1968 when the estate passed to Enzo Morganti. Prior to assuming control, Enzo Morganti spent two decades researching and experimenting with Sangiovese clones at Tenuta di Lilliano. At San Felice, he restructured and transformed this venerable estate, concentrating on high quality winemaking, systematic scientific research and thoughtful vineyard purchases, which included the Campogiovanni vineyard in Montalcino in 1984. Today the property includes a 1,853 acre resort, 445 acres of vineyards and a 44 acre parcel dedicated to experimental viticulture and genetic improvement of Sangiovese,
The San Felice vineyards are situated amongst the gently rolling hills of the Castelnuovo Berardenga area of Chianti Classico. The vines are planted in two different soil types: calcareous clay and a combination of sand and lime. The terroir of Campogiovanni, including its sandy, mineral-rich argillous soil, allows Sangiovese vines to grow slowly and steadily, therefore producing unusually complete and balanced grapes. In addition to indigenous varietals like Toscana's classic Sangiovese, San Felice has plantings of international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Like Enzo, winemaker Leonardo Bellacini has spent much of his career working with Sangiovese carries on the legacy of tradition and research and experimentation.
Among Italy's elite red grape varieties, Sangiovese has the perfect intersection of bright red fruit and savory earthiness and is responsible for the best red wines of Tuscany. While it is best known as the chief component of Chianti, it is also the main grape in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and reaches the height of its power and intensity in the complex, long-lived Brunello di Montalcino. Somm Secret—Sangiovese doubles under the alias, Nielluccio, on the French island of Corsica where it produces distinctly floral and refreshing reds and rosés.
One of the first wine regions anywhere to be officially recognized and delimited, Chianti Classico is today what was originally defined simply as Chianti. Already identified by the early 18th century as a superior zone, the official name of Chianti was proclaimed upon the area surrounding the townships of Castellina, Radda and Gaiole, just north of Siena, by Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany in an official decree in 1716.
However, by the 1930s the Italian government had appended this historic zone with additonal land in order to capitalize on the Chianti name. It wasn’t until 1996 that Chianti Classico became autonomous once again when the government granted a separate DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) to its borders. Ever since, Chianti Classico considers itself no longer a subzone of Chianti.
Many Classicos are today made of 100% Sangiovese but can include up to 20% of other approved varieties grown within the Classico borders. The best Classicos will have a bright acidity, supple tannins and be full-bodied with plenty of ripe fruit (plums, black cherry, blackberry). Also common among the best Classicos are expressive notes of cedar, dried herbs, fennel, balsamic or tobacco.